Yamaha YZF-R6

It'd be fair to say that in 1999 Yamaha decided enough was enough, and it was time to jump into the 600 ring and land some seriously heavy punches. The competition was hotting up and there was a distinct possibility that it was going to leave Yamaha and its very worthy - but lacklustre - Thundercat on the ropes.

There's absolutely no hiding it, the R6 is a very saucy, corner slashing laser sharp tool that was crafted for only one purpose - to rush screaming into corners like Philip Island's Siberia, slam it on its knee-trapping side (and with a lean angle of 56 degrees it would be,) before hurtling off the exit screeching like a Chinese firework. Get the picture? Move over GSX-R, R6 coming through.

If you want 600 performance with a dash of practical, think CBR or ZX-6R, if you want psycho, single-minded sex-thing then it's either GSX-R or R6. Frankly, any of the models mentioned have far more performance and capability than most ordinary humans can use, and, as used buys, offer extraordinarily good value for money.

HISTORY
The YZF-R6, to give the bike its full handle was the first production motorcycle to deliver a claimed 200PS per litre. These are seriously big numbers that put big brother R1 to shame. A fit R6 will deliver around 102PS (claimed) at the rear wheel, which is very impressive and endows the R6 with the kind of performance that is even now the preserve of bigger bikes. Weight is a pared down 169kg making the R6 the lightest 600 on the market at the time.

Built with racing in mind, the engine of the R6 is super-compact and features a stacked gearbox, which sees two gearshafts one above the other. (Conventional gearboxes have the shafts one behind the other) A shift to four-valves per cylinder to fit in the narrow cylinders saw a move away from the five-valve layout that had become Yamaha's cylinder head signature. Other features saw the use of twin electrode plugs, candle-stick plug-caps and of course ram-air.

If the R6 looks small, it is. The wheelbase provided by the alloy Deltabox 2 frame is a stumpy 1380mm, shorter than the GSX-R at the time but an absolute barge now when compared to the 1320mm of the new Buell XB9R. Strangely, despite being so physically small, the seat height is quite high at 820mm.

Until a few weeks ago there had only been two variants, the L that was discontinued in December of 2000 and the N that is still current in the showrooms. The latest and hugely updated R6 (see AMT November's INTERMOT 2002 report) is now so different they truly aren't the same bike.

ON THE ROAD
If you're not committed to enjoying what the R6 has to offer forget it. If you can't make use of at least half of what it has in the environment it was made for, it's a pointless acquisition. Like all modern bikes, the R6 is of course very easy to just get on and ride. And it is this ease that has suckered in a fair few owners and is the reason those same owners are now placing ads in this magazine. Sure it takes a fair few revs to get going as you slip the featherlight clutch but it really is a piece of the proverbial to doddle about on until one of two things happens. You either hit traffic, at which point it becomes a typical sportsbike in the wrong environment. All painful wrists, aching back, shoulders and darkening emotion, or you hit the twisties.

At this point the mood lightens and you realise you have signed up to deliver. The R6 expects. To get it to work well you have to be able to ride it hard and know what you're doing. You can fanny about kidding yourself, but if you don't have what it needs, then it will always feel like a disjointed and less-than-complete experience. However, and this is where it gets good, if you can make it work then the reward is one of motorcycling's best handling and essentially true experiences available.

Steering is quick and light, some have said vague, but that's more a product of just how light the bike is and is itself a key component to the precision with which you can pinpoint your line and drop on to it. Once on-line and laid right over, changes of position are achieved with tiny changes of body weight or bar pressure.

Revving hard has the 599cc unit making peak power at around 12,500rpm after which it starts to tail off a bit. Still good enough for a top speed of over 260km/h at the end of the main straight though. Torque, as you'd expect, is nothing to get excited about with a claimed 6.94kg-m at 11,500rpm, and isn't really in the same league as, say, a CBR up to about 10,000rpm. In fact, at about 6500rpm it feels like it drops into a bit of a hole especially in the higher gears.

When it comes to stopping you know you can rely on some of the best anchors in the business. R1 one-piece brakes are excellent. On the track, where you don't have to perform emergency stops, they're two-finger sensitive, always ready to adjust your speed to the precise point you want. On the road where Mr Myopia lives and that one-stop-you-have-to-do-right-now to save your life occurs, full on, four-finger feedback stopping power without fear, is right there at your fingertips.

IN THE WORKSHOP
This is a reliable unit without any real problems associated with it. That's not to say it hasn't got things you should look for, but we'll get to them.

When buying, try to start the thing from cold and listen to the engine. If there's a rattle, it could be a camchain-tensioner problem. What happens is the tensioner rod wears and sticks when cold, hence the rattle. It's an easy fix and well worth bargaining on. Just be aware though that should you decide to ‘just live with it' it will cost you big bucks in the long run.

Eyeball the frame, levers, footrests and panels looking for crash damage. Look for evidence of lockwiring from ex-racers, which may not be a bad thing as you are almost certain to get some good extras like quality suspension. Check the steering head bearings for notchiness as they are regular victims of crap wheelie technique.

If you're satisfied so far, take it for a test ride and check it for hands off straight running. Obviously don't do this in traffic, choose somewhere straight, smooth and quiet. R6 owners have been known to lob them up the road or track and frame damage can be expensive. Put the brakes on both gently and hard and feel for a pulsing sensation that will alert you to warped discs. These are expensive so if you feel it, haggle hard.

If there's a paddock stand or you have a mate to support the bike, rotate the rear wheel and check the chain for tight spots (wheelies again). Have a look at the brake pads and make sure there's enough pad material to pass a roadworthy.

Servicing is run-of-the-mill easy and costs are around $150-250 for minor services and $500 and above for majors. It's actually not that hard to do yourself if you have the inclination, so don't be afraid, just be sure to get a manual first.

MODIFICATIONS
These days with motorcycles being targeted from every direction, running a rowdy pipe is like sticking a flashing sign over your head saying ‘take my licence'. As a result, in light of the fact that the R6 isn't short of performance I'd say leave the pipe and jet kit alone unless you do loads of track days. Suspension and brakes are always worth spending on, although once again the standard stuff is excellent for most of us mortals. Without doubt the best modification you can make to an R6 is tyres. The bike and you deserve the best and stickiest tyres you can afford, so treat yourselves to the best.

IS IT FOR YOU?
If you're a devoted sportsbike fan that is willing to commit to a frantic affair spent mostly on race-tracks or at tyre shops then yes. If you want a bike for the weekly slog to work and a weekend jaunt then no. There are a lot of R6s on the market as owners who bought them found they couldn't get on with them, this is good news for some and bad for others. If you're in the market for one you can afford to be picky and look for the best price. Just make sure you're buying it for the right reasons.