Yamaha XV250S Virago v Suzuki GN250 v Honda CB250N

Three Nifty Two-Fifties

With Victoria joining the move to Learner Approved Motorcycles (LAMs), many see it as the kiss of death for the 250 class. The 250s though, have a lot going for them and they may well continue to have an important role in motorcycling.

THE CASE FOR 250s
When you ponder the future of motorcycling you notice that there are very few new riders coming into the fold. Young riders under 25 have been replaced by older riders over 35. If young people are to be attracted to motorcycling, it's my opinion that, along with LAMs and scooters, the 250 class will continue to be important.  Why? Because in days gone by, young people like me bought a motorcycle because it was cheap transport. Once the bug had bitten, there was no going back - to date I've owned over 150 machines. Now not everyone will be quite as addicted as I am, but nonetheless, the way to get people into motorcycling is to make it a cheaper alternative to public transport and car ownership. Thanks to low cost tyres, fuel and service costs, a used 250 can be cheap to buy, and cheap to run.

Another benefit of the 250 category is that the bikes tend to be physically small and light. Many have low seat heights, which makes them attractive to smaller riders. Longer rides are of course dependant on many factors, but there are hundreds of riders who have travelled the length and breadth of the country and even the world on 250s. In this Hindsight Snap-Shot we look at a cross-section of 250 machines in the sub $2000 bracket with low seat heights.

YAMAHA XV250S VIRAGO
Yamaha's evergreen XV250S Virago has been doing sterling duty as a learner machine here in Australia since 1989.

Most people buy a Virago for its looks. It mimics the bigger V-twin cruisers and, for many buyers, that's enough. Allied to the looks is a 246cc Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) engine that has the right V-twin architecture, makes enough power (about 23hp at 8000rpm ) to allow a cruising speed of 100km/h on the flat but makes its 2.2kg-m of torque mostly in the lower registers.

Handling is basic with suspension that's low and soft and further handicapped by forward control footrests that don't allow much lean angle. Even so at a casual cruising pace, there's enough to reward most beginners and provide a secure platform for gaining experience.

Despite being quoted in trade price books at about $3000 for a very early model, $2000 will secure an honest example with quite high kays. With the older models you can forget a service history. So go by condition. Early models had pretty poor finish, but there are still well cared for examples out there. Be sure to look for serious accident damage and check chain, sprockets and brakes for wear.

SUZUKI GN250
The little Suzuki was sold here from 1982 until 1996. Surprisingly, you can still find good examples of the 249cc SOHC single-cylinder machine. The GN has a quasi-chopper look with longish front forks and high and wide handlebars. It's a better machine to ride than the Virago. Conventional footrests and a broad and reasonably comfortable seat make it rider-friendly and it has enough room for a passenger if necessary. 

Unlike the Virago, the GN is less capable on the open road, being happier in a commuting role. The single-cylinder engine just works too hard at freeway speeds for it to be a long distance tool and it transmits a fair amount of vibration through to the rider.

Being a cheapo bike costing only $1399 when first introduced and $4899 when discontinued, the finish now will hardly be show-quality. Perhaps because they're quite low to the ground, GNs seem to shake off crashes quite well but even so make sure the front end is straight as the wide handlebars can twist the long forks in the top triple clamp quite easily. Check it by riding in a straight line and looking at the handlebars to pick up any misalignment. If it's twisted the solution is fairly simple. It can often be fixed by holding the front wheel between your knees and giving the bars a tug in the right direction.

HONDA CB250N
Honda's CB has been a very popular bike and a stalwart of the rider-training industry since its introduction in 1992. The 234cc SOHC twin has been the platform for millions of riders the world over to launch their motorcycle careers and if there's a pick of the bunch, then this is it. It's the easiest bike in the world to ride and it's versatile. The riding position accommodates most riders, big or small and it can be ridden over surprisingly long distances at sustained speeds of around 100-110km/h.

Like all small-capacity Hondas it's robust, ultra-reliable and cheap to run. Finish is reasonably good and better than most. Equipment and brakes are excellent. Nice examples are capable of lasting for 100,000 kilometres or more.

It's hard to get into trouble with a CB. Obviously you'll need to check out the overall condition and make sure everything works. Chains and sprockets last well with only about 20hp trying to wear them out. The same goes for tyres and brake pads. All 250s work hard and as a result need regular oil changes if they're to last. Make sure the clutch doesn't slip under load - clutches cop a bit of abuse from learners.

Regular oil changes are the key to keeping little engines in good shape, so try to find out from the owner what's been happening in that regard. Avoid a bike with jet black old oil in the engine. 

ALL OF THE ABOVE
The bikes chosen here represent three of the most reliable and trouble-free for the money. Naturally a bike is only as good as its previous owners and a history of serial neglect usually leads to problems. As a general rule, avoid anything that blows blue smoke from the exhaust. There are three common noises to be aware of: Tapping noises coming from the top of the engine indicate wear, or lack of adjustment. Clattering is often related to camchain and tensioner wear and knocks usually indicate all is seriously unwell at the bottom of the engine. All can be fixed, but the first two are usually the easiest. If there's noticeably pronounced vibration on test rides, get off and walk away. If the lights brighten and dim significantly with revs, or the flashers speed up and slow down, factor in the cost of a new battery. Check the tyres not just for tread but cracks in the tyre walls and make a list of all the consumables that will need replacing at your cost.

Obviously the three bikes above span 25 years and so you can forget guarantees and service histories. Despite that, buying from a reputable dealer is a good idea. Be ready, though, to resist their attempts to sell you a more expensive machine.

With fuel, parking and public-transport costs skyrocketing and with the introduction of LAMS likely to push 250 prices down to some extent, there may never be a better time to buy a 250cc machine. You'll save money and if you're a new rider, you might catch my addiction to the pleasures of motorcycling.