Touring Tasmania on ya bike

Whether as a rite of passage or an annual pilgrimage, touring Tasmania by motorcycle is one of those trips every rider should take. From the varied vistas of its dramatic coastlines, its cool untouched forests or the blonde grassy hills of its parched inland heart, Tasmania offers not only the scenery that makes riding it so worthwhile, but some of the most entertaining stretches of black-top you could hope to find anywhere.

The best thing about all of this is that Tasmania confers all of this in a compact, adrenalin-filled package even the most novice rider could knock over in a couple of days. As we discovered on a recent three-dayer to the Apple Isle you don’t need a week to discover the best bits of Australia’s southern-most state (though it would have been nice). Just pack up your swag, jump on the ferry, and take to the road for a ride you’ll not soon forget... And one I bet will have you wanting to return again and again.

THE WILD, WILD WEST
With a dozen mates our trek began in Devonport, as is logical to do considering the only real option of getting to Van Diemen’s Land is by ferry from Melbourne. Sure, there are a handful of reputable rental agencies dotted in the major cities, but in the interests of sticking to a budget, your own bike can’t be beat. But I digress.

From Devonport we headed for the Wild West coast via Railton, Sheffield, Barrington, Forth and Gawler. It might seem a little protracted, but the roads are well worth the detour. What’s more they’ll bring you out at Gunns Plains which in turn offers a number of routes (some familiar to Targa Tasmania ilk) each entertaining in their own right.

The damp, winding roads into Gunns Plains claimed our first (and thankfully only) victim of the trip. Fortunately the injuries amounted to nothing more than a macerated knee cap. The bike didn’t fare so well.

The lovely Paula at the Gunns Plains General Store was helpful in her advice and we soon had the bike on a sheep trailer back to Devonport. She doesn’t make a bad coffee, either.

Looping north again through Riana and on to Burnie (where at least one of us discovered you can’t park on the footpath is Tassie) the scenery is astounding, and well worth a pause for happy snaps if you’re so inclined.

We then took the A10 south via Yolla and through the Hellyer Gorge State Reserve for one of the best knee-down sections in the entire state. Then, a quick left-right east of Waratah sends us deeper into the heavily forested Granite Tor Conservation Area and Lake Mackintosh, where I highly recommend turning right on the Pieman Road (also marked Reece Dam Road). You’ll see why when you get there, it’s like an amusement park for motorcycles!

With just enough fuel we end up crossing the dam wall at Lake Pieman’s western tip before trundling down the fast-flowing Heemskirk Road to Zeehan.

Zeehan seems deserted at the best of times, there’s fewer than 900 people living in this once flourishing silver mining town, but thanks to the advent of EFTPOS, fuel can be bought anytime day or night. A quick dash through the scrubby bush to Strahan allowed glimpses of the Southern Ocean as we swung eastward to the Lyell Highway, Queenstown and our first night’s accommodation.

The hydroelectric plants of Derwent Bridge and Bradys Lake make a dramatic backdrop to what’s otherwise a heavily wooded but fun section of highway en route to Hamilton (seriously, don’t bother stopping, the local hospitality doesn’t deserve your business) and Bothwell.

The section of the Hollowtree Road from the A10 to Bothwell is as entertaining as it is compelling. It’s an open and well kept stretch of road that for some unexplained reason is literally littered with road kill from start to finish. Fair dinkum, there’s a corpse every ten or so metres. The highest concentration of decomposing wildlife of any place we encountered in Tassie (and that’s saying something) almost every road we travelled seems to be permeated with the smell of putrefied flesh.

Grin and bear it, because the Castle Hill pub at Bothwell is worth stopping for, even if the kitchen isn’t geared up for a dozen hungry bikers. The tucker is, however, almost worth the wait and the never-ending parade of bikes passing the front door will certainly give you enough to talk about.

By now the road (A5) has opened up, and after a few days of tight, twisty roads you’ll welcome the chance to, um, stretch your legs... So to speak.

Undulating terrain speckled with farms and livestock lining the road on each side will do its best to distract you, and while the road needs little more than a lazy glance ahead, the right hander to Poatina will sneak up on you. It is one turn you don’t want to miss.

The silky uphill section between Great Lake and Arthurs Lake will eventually be met by a series of switchbacks and a steep grade down to the resort town of Poatina, the change in temperature also noticeable as we track across the hot open plains to Cressy.

Launceston was our destination for night two, and though we were tempted to link the roads from Cressy to Cluan, Golden Valley and Deloraine, the offer of a BBQ dinner with a mate’s family was too good to pass up.

OF ELEMENTS AND ELEPHANTS
The next morning we doubled back through Cressy and south for Campbell Town. The Midland Highway (A1) will get you here in double-time, but for my money, the Macquarie Road (C522) and its view of the Great Western Tiers just can’t be beat. The Red Bridge Cafe at Campbell Town makes what is arguably the best coffee in Tasmania, and certainly the best of our trip. It's worth the stop.

From here, we hooked a right on the Lake Leake Highway and enjoyed a brisk squirt east to Bicheno where a curious little motorcycle museum proved too alluring for our motley crew. By now, unfortunately, the rain was upon us and as we headed for St Marys past the picturesque Maclean Bay the Tasman Sea, whipped by onshore winds pelted salt spray at our already sodden skin. The Elephant Pass (A4) through Gray and St Marys is worth the detour, as the number of bikes braving the elements clearly testified.

Rejoining the Tasman Highway (A3) for Scamander and Beaumaris, the road deviates inland again for St Helens, Goshen, Weldborough and the gorgeous little town of Derby via a stretch of tar that although populated heavily by Winnebagos, 4WDs, caravans and the occasional log truck, is genuinely thrilling. The towering eucalypts and prehistorically proportioned tree ferns are captivating here, and can distract from the job at hand, so keep your wits about you.

All too soon the road descends past the rustic homesteads of once isolated farmland before literally popping you out in the main street of Scottsdale. This typically Tasmanian town oozes charm and, unlike some places we encountered along the way, was receptive to bikers. The proprietor of the local BP servo even greeted us with an atomiser full of soapy water and some clean, soft rags ready for visor and helmet cleaning.

As we were pressed for time (I told you I wished we had a week) we made the decision to bypass Bridport and the Batman Bridge for the quicker route through Launceston and back to Devonport, and our waiting ferry.

Leaving Scottsdale via the Sideling Pass the patchwork road surface caught us unaware on a few turns. The road, like many in Tasmania absolutely covered on its corners by marbles thrown up from vehicles dragging their rear wheel across the shoulder.

All too soon we were back in Launceston to rejoin the freeway for Devonport. Although a tame road by the standards encountered elsewhere on our ride it’s not without its charm. The setting sun catching the Great Western Tiers and Alum Cliffs before we swing north to meet the Mersey River and our floating 200 car garage.

I’m sure I speak for everyone in our little group when I say the trip to Tasmania is well worth the effort. Every last kilometre offers postcard perfect scenery, tantalising twists and turns and a chance to explore mile after mile at a pace matching your mood. I’d recommend touring the Apple Isle to anyone with the means to make it happen, two wheels or otherwise.

MANLY FERRY
Now I couldn’t get to this point without clearing up some misnomers on the ferry itself. The Spirit of Tasmania (and its sister ship) is the only mode of transport suitable for getting you and your bike across Bass Strait and as such is rather busy.

The staff are, for the most part, knowledgeable and happy to assist, but with so much traffic boarding and disembarking can take a while -- up to 90 minutes in fact! Once you’re on it’s a good idea to stay with your bike until it’s secured, we’ve heard too many stories of manly heavy-handed deck hands blowing fork seals, or in my case, not knowing the brake from the clutch.

Unfortunately you can’t secure your own bike, and once sail is set, you can’t return below deck. The crossing takes just over nine hours, not including the time it takes to board and disembark. Onboard, the Spirit is a friendly and laid back trip to Station Pier, though if you’re prone to sea sickness, it’s best to pop a few ginger tablets in lieu of a beer.

Regular travellers spend the extra dollars to take a cabin and go on the overnight sailing. You can then hit the road fresh from Devonport and get an extra day riding.