Advice: Top tips for motorcycle photography

Bike porn. Is there anything better? Okay, maybe don’t answer that. One thing’s for sure though: as riders we spend a lot of time on the net or on social media or with our noses in books and magazines ogling at pictures of our dream bikes or that bike trip of a lifetime, or gawking at Marc Márquez getting his elbow down on a 60-degree corner. Pictures of bikes, put simply, are just awesome.

Here are our top tips on how to perfect your own motorcycle photography:

It’s all in the frame and composure
We’re not talking about the things you buy from Ikea. And we’re definitely not talking about Mozart (that’d be ‘composer’).

Framing and composure are perhaps the most important pieces of the jigsaw. Get these parts right, and you’ll be on your way to a great photo.

Firstly, take the time to consider exactly what you want to include in the photo, whether that be bike and rider, just the bike or whatever else. Test to see what works through trial and error.

Then, before you even take a photo, divide the viewfinder into three, both vertically and horizontally, ensuring the subject fit neatly into one of the resulting sections. Whilst some pictures may look better with the bike/rider centred, it pays to experiment with framing and create different shots.

A lot of cameras now come with a framing grid which can be selected as an option in the settings menu so there’s no excuse for not following the guidelines—literally!

Also consider the angle from which you’re shooting. Positioning the bike at an angle, with either its front or rear closest to the camera will give the image depth (more on depth later). Likewise, getting low will make your subject—in this case the bike— ‘pop’ out of the frame more.

Keep it simple and don’t over complicate what you’re trying to achieve. In most cases, your main focus should be the bike, bike and rider, or the bike against a scenic backdrop.

Taking a bit of care and time to set up your frame and the composure can make the biggest difference to a photo.

Light, camera, action!
All photographers bleat on about light, and normally for good reason. It’s that same reason why photographers the world over come out to play at dawn and dusk… just like vampires.

Photographing your bike during the ‘golden’ hours—when light is softer and shadows less harsh—will give you the best results. Try to avoid shooting at midday when the sun is directly overhead and at its fiercest.

Depending on how directly the sun is shining, aim for light to come from behind you (though watch you don’t get your own shadow in the shot). Shooting into the sun will create a silhouette and make for a more artistic picture. Likewise, experiment with the sun’s light coming from an angle for added effect, especially if there’s a rider in the shot and you want to avoid them having to squint into the lens.

If you’re using a camera which offers manual adjustment (such as a DSLR or some of the better equipped automatics), familiarise yourself with your ISO settings which determine how sensitive your lens is to light. Your preferred ISO setting will be defined by how much light your camera can absorb (depending on what the sun is doing, if there are shadows coming into play or if it’s growing dark).

Use a flash when necessary, particularly for tight portraits or in dull light but be wary of the flash reflecting against any chrome.

Finally, if you only buy one piece of extra kit, make it a polarised lens filter. Reducing reflections from glass and metal (obviously a great help when it comes to photographing bikes), polarised filters also improve colours and contrast.

Background
The background of a photo can be just as important as the subject; the wrong background can make a picture look cluttered or distract from the focal point.

Unless photographing an irresistibly epic view or scenic backdrop, use a simple background to help the bike stand out and ensure it doesn’t get lost.

Consider colours that feature within the background. For example, if the bike has grey paint, don’t photograph it against a grey concrete wall. Instead, aim for a background which offers more contrast.

Finally, try to ensure that any objects in the background sit nicely in the frame. Be aware of trees that appear to grow out of helmets, or lampposts that jut out from fuel tanks. If shooting a cluster of bikes, try to position the camera in a way that will avoid a photo that makes it look like one of the bikes has grown additional mirrors.

Go deep
Creating a sense of depth will make your photo more engaging and give it texture.

A sense of depth really pays off when photographing landscape backdrops, drawing the audience in so they feel like they are in the photo, rather than just looking at it. A wider-angle lens helps with this—as does correct aperture adjustment so that both bike and background are sharp and in focus. Positioning the bike in the foreground, closer to the camera, helps give a sense of scale and emphasises vast views.

Also consider how you position the bike when photographing it against a less dimensional background, such as a wall. Create greater depth of field by bringing the bike forward and further into the foreground of the frame, help it to stand out more. To add to the effect, adjust the camera’s aperture and reduce background focus. This will further emphasise the bike as the photo’s focal point.

Don’t shake it like a Polaroid picture
Unless you’re processing a Polaroid, the shakes are never good and normally mean you’ve got the flu or a really bad hangover.

If you’re photographing your bike against a beautiful scenic backdrop you’ll want to use a small aperture and slower shutter speed to create depth. However, these settings will mean the shot is susceptible to blurring.

The best way to ensure that the image is sharp is to use a tripod but that doesn’t necessarily mean dragging awkward kit with you. Find a flat rock or fencepost with a level surface to sit the camera on top of. Another top tip is to set the camera to go off on a two- or three-second delayed timer—that way you won’t have to physically click the shutter and so will avoid any chance of movement and consequent blur.

On the road
Panning with a bike when you’re shooting it in action creates a sense of motion. With the bike in focus and background intentionally blurred, your photo will give off a real sense of speed.

For best results, play with shutter speeds which will help your subject stay sharp. The most dramatic photos will come from locking focus and following the subject, shooting continuously with the right shutter speed adjustment. However, the opposite can be true too; you can get artistic by keeping the road/background in focus as the bike goes past—particularly if the background itself is interesting or particularly beautiful;. Likewise, shutter speed can help show the motion of one bike over another if travelling at different speeds, such as on the race track perhaps.

Stand up, lay down
Vertical or horizontal, portrait or landscape—there is no right or wrong. It really just depends on what you’re shooting, the background, and the effect you want to achieve.

Look through the viewfinder and try both options—you’ll know what looks better for the particular situation and then experiment with different angles. A portrait shot could work really well from one angle but landscape could work better for another.

Read, read, read
Your camera’s manual. Having a camera is one thing, knowing what to do with it is another. Most cameras nowadays, from compact automatic models to DSLRs, are very sophisticated and offer various functionality. Taking the time to get to know your gear and how to use it will ensure you get the best possible pictures.

Once you’ve mastered your camera’s basic functions buy books not additional gear. You’ll improve your camera skills more by learning techniques over buying expensive gadgets!