Cape York by Harley-Davidson Pan America

The Harley-Davidson Pan America is a great adventure bike, but quality and capability will only get you so far in the competitive dual-sport bike segment.

History, experience, and imagery play a massive role in selling bikes and, as the new kid on the block, the Pan America doesn’t have those cards in its deck.

So, in a bid to change public perceptions and prove that the Pan Am is the real deal, the Australian arm of the Motor Company decided to plan an expedition to one of Australia’s last frontiers – Cape York Peninsula.

The plan was simple – an assortment of H-D staff, H-D dealers, H-D ambassadors, and motorcycle journalists would spend three days north of Cairns putting the Pan America through its paces in challenging terrain.

The experience was dubbed 'Where the Dirt Takes Me', and it was designed to show the faraway places that a machine like the Pan America can get you to.

Two H-D ambassadors, freestyle motocross star Emma McFerran and Sunrise weatherman James Tobin, were chosen as the faces of the project, while Supercars legend Craig Lowndes was also brought along to try out the Pan America.

Meanwhile, the dealers had the chance to prove the capability of the products they sell, and the journos could finally test the adventure machine in truly punishing conditions. And it doesn’t get much more punishing than Cape York.

Australia has long been a proving ground for both man and machine, and Cape York is the pinnacle (literally and figuratively). The harsh and variable conditions and terrain provide the ultimate test for off-road motorcycles and their riders. If a bike or rider can make it here, they can make it anywhere.  

Leading the ride was the legendary Roy Kunda, who operates Cape York tours via his acclaimed company, Cape York Motorcycle Adventures.

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The crew arrived at the headquarters of Cape York Motorcycle Adventures on the outskirts of Cairns. I had visited this picturesque property once before – in 2019, when I took part in the seven-Day Cairns to Cape York tour on behalf of Australasian Dirt Bike magazine.

Roy, his business partner (and wife) Renae, and his team of guides and drivers are the best in the business, with over 30 years of experience in Far North Queensland tourism. I was absolutely stoked to be back here doing another tour.

Having met my fellow riders the night before, we all arrived at CYMA HQ and were greeted with a fleet of perfectly prepped Pan Americas. I had ridden the Pan Am twice before and knew of its capability, but I was still unsure of how it would handle the brutal Cape York terrain.

After all of the formalities, briefings, and obligatory photo and video opportunities, we departed along the highway in the pouring rain and then turned onto the iconic Black Mountain Road.

The beauty of Far North Queensland is that, outside of the wet season, the rain never lasts for too long. And even if you get absolutely soaked, the warm air dries you out quickly. The track didn’t dry as quickly, however, and the Pan Am was slipping and sliding in the slick conditions. Fortunately the bike and its clever electronics were up for the job. 

It became apparent almost immediately the overall riding ability of the group was quite high. Of course, the end goal is to get back in one piece, but I was quick to learn that this ride would be no leisurely stroll in the park – we would be pushing these machines to their limits.

On one fast yet technical section, I misread a hill climb while trying to keep up with Lowndsey and Emma. I found myself stuck as the rest of the group passed me. After inching my way to the top, I realised that my troubles were due to the fact I’d mistakenly left traction control on. Rookie error. 

By lunch time we arrived in Mt. Molloy and stopped for a well-earned steak sandwich and can of Coke at the National Hotel.

After Mt. Molloy, the landscape continued to change dramatically as rainforest gave way to scrubland and vast plains. A stop at the spectacular Bob’s Lookout provided some great photo opportunities, while a few twists and turns on the Mulligan Highway allowed us to test the Pan America’s tarmac ability. It might be a dual-sport bike, but it can mix it with the best of them on a twisty tarmac road.

Eventually we found the dirt again, the afternoon featuring flowing outback tracks, plenty of red dust, and a few fun water crossings as we headed into gold mining country.

The day’s route culminated with perhaps the biggest challenge of the day – a long, tricky crossing of the Palmer River. For those who found a good line, the crossing presented no issues, but a few riders came unstuck and gave the bikes a good soaking in the water. Incredibly though, each Pan Am that went in the drink emerged unscathed – even the ones that were fully submerged.

After all the fun in the river, we rode a short distance to our secluded campsite on the Palmer River at Maytown where the support truck was waiting with our bags and an esky full of icy-cold cans. As the sun set, we cooled off in the river with a beer and toasted an epic day of riding.

Dinner consisted of veggies and a campfire-cooked steak that was up there with the best I’ve ever had. Yarns were swapped, beers were downed and then it was time for bed. As I dragged myself over to my swag around midnight I looked up to get one of the clearest views of the Milky Way you’ll ever likely see. Yep, this is a special place.

After Roy had regaled us with some true crime stories of the local area the night before, I was a tiny little bit relieved to be leaving the Palmer River campsite in one piece.

The campsite was quite sandy and we spent a little bit of extra time getting the bikes back to solid ground. It was a beautiful sunny morning, and soon we were back on the road.

Despite bursts of rain the day before, the tracks were still incredibly dusty, and it was imperative that we all kept our distance from one another. By this stage, my grey and black Ixon adventure suit was now red, and I doubt whether I’ll ever have it fully clean again. Those who have travelled to remote parts of Australia know that the red dirt sticks around for a lifetime.

A few more creek crossings provided some early morning thrills, while long stretches of winding dirt roads allowed for some quiet reflection and solitude.

It was also a morning filled with learning, as Roy gave us history lessons on the North Mine and the Maytown Ruins. And at one rest stop, Lowndsey entertained us with some racing stories from his long and illustrious career in Supercars.

We got to the township of Laura by lunchtime and tucked into some barramundi sandwiches at the Peninsula Hotel. Some passing grey nomads recognised Lowndsey and soon enough he was swamped with adoring fans wanting photos. The rest of us were more than happy to keep eating and leave the fanfare to him.

After lunch we headed towards the Old Laura Homestead, where I saw Emma nearly get taken out by a kangaroo. The ’roo then darted in front of me, but managed to escape in one piece. I don’t think he would have been a match for the big Pan Am though.

From the Homestead, we began our journey east on the long and barren Battlecamp Road. This long and straight stretch of dirt is now littered with small stretches of tarmac, but its rough nature still requires riders to be fully alert and cautious.

The trek along Battlecamp seemed like an eternity, but eventually we came to Isabella Falls, where the promise of a quick dip in the water awaited. It was getting late though and most of us opted to wait until we arrived at camp to cool off. Still, Tobin (or JT as he is better known) couldn’t help himself and jumped in still wearing his gear, which was worthy of a few laughs.

It was a cruisy ride through Cooktown to our destination at the famous Lion’s Den Hotel, but not before a close encounter with the 5-0. One of our group was pulled over, but he was let go without any issues. Fine or no fine, it’s still a nervous time.

I was relieved when we pulled into the Den after a long day on the bikes. I wasted no time in heading down to the river (I was assured it was croc-free) and jumped in to cool off.

The Lion’s Den Hotel is a truly iconic Australian pub, and the night was filled with plenty of yarns, laughs, music, and beer.  

It is incredible how radically the landscape changes as you move throughout the Cape York Peninsula. The first two days featured barren plains, dusty tracks, and sandy creek beds. The third and final day, however, would take us down the coast through the legendary Daintree Rainforest.

After breakfast, we saddled up and made our way to the start of the Bloomfield track. By this stage, most of the crew was a little weary, dusty, and, in some cases, hungover, but the Pan Americas were holding up well.

When I first travelled to the Cape in 2019, I was told numerous times that I would almost certainly see a crocodile. I didn’t. And, after two days on this trip, we still hadn’t crossed paths with one of the reptilian giants.

Our first key stop for the day was Wujal Wujal, a sizable and very impressive waterfall. The rough walking track into the viewing spot displays warning signs that scream ACHTUNG, but I still did not see a croc. I was starting think they are fictional creatures.

We continued up into the hills towards the Bloomfield Track when the pack came to a grinding halt. “Get the drone out,” came the call from the front. The video team sprang into action while the rest of us scurried to see what all the fuss was about.

Sure enough, way down below on the river bed, there was a big croc sunning itself. Finally! Although it was so far away that I still can’t be sure that it wasn’t an elaborate hoax.

The Bloomfield Track proved to be a challenge, mostly for the amount of tourists in cars we were forced to dodge.

Perhaps the highlight of the whole trip was a quick detour onto the beach along the Bloomfield Track, where we had an absolute ball sliding the big Pan Americas in the sand. With a bunch of epic photos and video clips in the bag, we headed back to the road and continued on.

Soon enough, after crossing the famous Emmagen Creek, we arrived at Cape Tribulation and stopped for some toasties at a local café.

The post-lunch ride back towards Cairns took us across the Daintree River on the ferry and along some stunning coastal roads.

And just like that, we arrived back at Cape York Motorcycle Adventures HQ and the journey was finished. I quickly changed, said goodbyes and headed for the airport. It was on the plane that I finally got to reflect on the trip.

My first thought was of how good the Harley-Davidson Pan America really is. When it was first announced there were many doubters, but the Motor Company’s first adventure bike is the real deal. The Cape York trip gave me, and my fellow riders, a proper chance to test the machine in truly challenging Australian conditions.

While most Pan Am owners will likely stick to well-travelled roads, those who do venture off the beaten path will be rewarded with a capable and comfortable bike. Sure, it isn’t 100 per cent perfect, but it is a platform that is only going to get better and better as H-D continues to develop it.

And, regardless of what machine you choose, a trip through the Cape York Peninsula is a thrilling, rewarding, and often moving experience. We’re lucky to have so much incredible terrain here in Australia, and exploring on two-wheels is the best way to see it.

I left Cairns in 2019 hoping for a quick return, and now I feel the same way leaving in 2022. Bring on the next adventure!