Advice: Preparing for winter riding

Cold weather riding. Brrr. Just the thought of it can see some cloak their bike with a cover and a dust sheet, before ramping up their home’s central heating. However, the prospect needn’t be so grim, because there’s a whole lot we can do to stay warm, dry and comfortable on our bike, on even the chilliest of days.

Actually, as far as cold weather goes, we’re pretty fortunate here in Australia. Sure, we have alpine regions and plenty of inland areas prone to frosts through the middle of the year, but the reality for most Aussie riders is far brighter than for, say, our European brothers and sisters. A good number of Aussie bikers may even be scratching their heads about the term ‘winter’. If you prefer the term ‘the dry season’, then please take your sniggering elsewhere, and no – I don’t want to see your Hawaiian shirt collection...

However, if you don’t have the right gear and approach, riding in cold weather is simply a drag. What’s more, it can be dangerous too. Icy roads are fraught with peril, and numb hands reduce your control of the bike. Longer rides in really cold conditions will also take the edge off your concentration , leaving you vulnerable to any emergency situation that may crop up.

I’ve done my fair share of cold weather riding. For a start I’m based in Melbourne, but I’ve also ridden my way through four British winters, and in the grips of one I was foolish enough to knock over an Iron Butt Saddlesore 1000 -- 1000 miles, or 1600km, in 24 hours. That took me from Cambridge, England, to Inverness, Scotland – and back again – in mid January. I’ve ridden to the infamous Elephant Rally too, in the depths of mid winter in Germany, so I’d like to think I’ve picked up a trick or two to combat the chills along the way.

We’re all familiar with the term ‘wind chill’ – the dreaded enemy of any motorcyclist pushing on through cold climes. There are a number of complex formulae for geeky types to actually work it out, but an international standard has never been agreed upon. Whatever – the bottom line for us bikers is that the temperature you experience on the bike at speed is appreciably less than the ambient temperature.

One chart I came across showed that at 60km/h at five degrees, the wind chill effect actually reduces the temperature experienced to -1.8 degrees. The faster you ride the greater the wind chill effect, so you can see that at highway touring speeds we’re talking about a considerable temperature drop.

While our motorcycling forefathers had to make do with heavy woollen greatcoats and bulky jumpers, help is at hand for the modern biker in the form of a range of high-tech fabrics. These fabrics are specifically designed to block wind and reduce wind chill effect, and there are plenty of different brand names out there that work to lesser or greater degrees.

One name I certainly trust is Windstopper, which is made by US firm W.L. Gore & Associates (which also makes Gore-Tex fabric). As a general rule, any garment that comes with the claim it’s “100% windproof” will have some form of technical liner to reduce wind chill effect. However, if it doesn’t, it’s not the end of the world – you’ll just have to add one yourself underneath.

Blocking the wind is only a part of the equation. Before you’ve even looked at your bike jacket, you need to build up some layers of defence right next to your body’s skin. I’m talking about thermal undies here – a long-sleeve top and trouser-length pants – which together should form an essential part of your winter riding kit. The first layer is of the utmost importance, as this will trap a layer of warm air next to your skin, which will keep your core temperature right where it needs to be.

Speaking of ‘cores’, it’s vitally important you keep your own core – i.e. your chest and abdomen – warm. When your body gets cold it prioritises what it needs to keep at the correct temperature, i.e. 37°C. Up the top of the list is the heart and your other major internal organs, so if your core temperature is dropping, your body will draw blood flow, and therefore heat, from other areas. This is partly why your body’s extremities go numb first on a cold ride, and why in very cold situations your reaction times slow and you can lose your capacity for clear thought. Bottom line? Keep that core warm!

Right, back to our thermals. It’s no good simply to go for a product that promises maximum warmth, because we need this first layer to breathe too, and wick away moisture from the surface of the skin. If they don’t, we get sweaty – and that’s a big ‘no no’ (see “Keeping Dry”, below). There are plenty of different types of dedicated motorcycle thermals around that should draw moisture away from your skin as a matter of course, but over the years I’ve had no problems with a set made from polypropylene that I bought from a hiking store. They weren’t expensive, they came in a wonderfully lurid pink stripey colour scheme (bonus!) and they’re still going strong after 12 years.

Stepping up (quite a bit) in price, I also swear by Icebreaker Gear, made from NZ merino fleece. This stuff is expensive, but it’s well made, it looks good (to the extent you can easily wear an Icebreaker top as casual wear), and it works really well, keeping you both warm and dry. Icebreaker gear suppresses body odour, too – which should keep your mates happy!

I vary the number of thermal layers depending on the temperatures and conditions I expect to encounter. For regular winter touring, maybe one layer might be sufficient. Heading into the Australian Alps in the ski season? Throw on a second set. When I rode from England across Western Europe to the Elephant Rally I wore a good four or five layers. I inevitably lost some manoeuvrability, but I was warm – despite the blizzard and sub-zero temperatures I encountered on the way.

Keeping dry is also vitally important, as water is an excellent conductor of heat. So, if your body is wet, it will lose heat far more readily. We need to come at this conundrum from two angles.

Firstly, we want a first thermal layer that wicks away moisture, followed by further layers (including your actual bike jacket) that have some ability to breathe. If they don’t, you’ll simply sweat, and that sweat will cool – and down goes that core temperature.

Secondly, we need an outer shell that’s up to the job of keeping you dry if the heavens open, but can still breathe, to prevent sweating. This is where the name Gore-Tex springs readily to mind, although there are a number of other alternatives out there that also work to varying degrees.

The same goes for your trousers, gloves and boots – it’s worth spending a bit of money, as cheap gear generally won’t stay dry in prolonged wet conditions. If you do get caught out by a downpour, and you’re starting to get cold, if possible stop in at the next town and buy yourself a dry t-shirt – and have something hot to eat and drink. It’ll make a big difference.

These days there are hundreds of bike apparel options out there, with myriad brands all jostling to win your hard-earned dollars. And while this article isn’t a clothing comparison, I can still offer you some basic guidance.

Firstly, forget leather. Yes, it offers excellent protection, but it’s not warm and when it’s wet, it’s wet for days. For winter riding, go for textile gear. Secondly – and you’re not going to want to hear this – but you do indeed get what you pay for. Cheaper jackets can still offer decent protection in the event of a get-off, but when it comes to extreme riding conditions – heavy rain, low temperatures, or extreme heat – you’re going to need to splash some cash.

Generally speaking, you won’t go wrong with trusted names (Alpinestars, Dainese etc), but that’s not to say you won’t get good performance out of a DriRider – I’ve had a DriRider Arctic jacket for over eight years now, and while the colour has faded a little, it still works perfectly well in less than ideal riding conditions. Bear in mind if you’re buying a jacket to wear almost exclusively in cold conditions, make it a size larger than normal – this will allow you to add extra layers underneath and still maintain ease of movement.

Similarly, go for products with well-known technical liners. If I see a Gore-Tex or Windstopper swing tag, I know I’m in good hands. Also, don’t feel you always need to go to a motorcycle shop to get good quality cold weather gear. I usually wear a long-sleeve zip-up jacket when riding in winter – it goes under my riding jacket and over my thermals, it’s made by an Austrian ski-wear company and it has some form of very effective wind-blocking liner.

You lose the majority of your heat through your head and neck, so keeping these bits warm is also a must. Balaclavas can pay dividends on really cold rides, but make sure they’re not too bulky, or you’ll just end up with a headache. At the very least – and this goes for shorter trips too – get yourself a neckwarmer.

I still occasionally use a neck warmer I bought from a Sydney ski shop some 20 years ago for $10. As far as bike gear goes, that’s probably the best return on investment I’ve ever encountered! In the UK I also used a Windstopper neck warmer to great effect – it did the job of a thick ski neck warmer, but without the bulk, making ‘head checks’ when changing lanes far easier.

That leaves us with the pinnacle of cold weather riding kit – electric gear. It’s not so readily found in Australia because we simply don’t usually encounter really cold conditions, but electric gear is heaven on a stick. It’s expensive, of course, but there’s nothing quite like flicking a switch and having this wonderful feeling of warmth radiate all over your chest and back. The other benefit is that with an electric vest you don’t need as many layers, so you won’t be as bulky.

Electric gear simply wires straight into your bike’s battery, but it actually draws a very low current – so it’s entirely safe, even if it gets wet. I’m lucky enough to own a set of Gerbing gear – I’ve got electric gloves that plug into an electric long-sleeved jacket, which in turns plugs into electric trousers, with electric socks! I couldn’t have done that Iron Butt Saddlesore 1000 without it. Of course all that is overkill for Aussie conditions, but even just an electric vest is a worthwhile investment – just ask anyone who owns one.

A good winter gear system, when approached with a little bit of knowledge, makes all the difference between viewing cold weather riding with dread, or looking forward to it as you would a ride at any other time of year. Granted, you can spend a fortune on a full set, but start with the basics – a decent set of thermals – and adds better bits and pieces as you can afford them.

There’s nothing quite like a ride on a crisp winter’s day, and sucking in that frigid air reminds you it’s great to be alive. So go on, follow these tips, get out there and seize the day – and laugh in the face of Old Man Winter!

1. Invest in heated handlebar grips. Many manufacturers offer them as a factory option, but aftermarket accessories grips are also available. These not only keep your hands warm, they allow you to maintain full control of the bike, so they’re a great safety feature.

2. When rain is threatening, check for any chinks in your wet weather defences. Should your jacket’s sleeves go under or over your gauntlets? Similarly, are your trousers over your boots, and is your jacket done all the way up to the top? Remember, once you’re wet you’ll get cold, and you won’t be drying out anytime soon.

3. Struggling to get wet weather pants on over your boots? Keep a plastic shopping bag in your jacket pocket. Slip the bag over your boot, and those plastic pants will slide straight on every time.

4. Jacket and pants that zip together keep drafts around your waist to a minimum.

5. Get out of the breeze. You’ll cop the worst of wind chill on a naked bike, while a touring bike, with a large screen, will flip the icy blast around you. On long rides, the style of your bike should make a big difference to your pre-trip preparations.

This article was originally published on June 6, 2019.