New Zealand on a Sportster

In the beginning, God sat on his throne of clouds stroking his beard as he pondered his blueprint plans for Earth. And then he said: “Let there be land where motorcyclists can find Heaven.” So he created New Zealand.

A Harley-Davidson Sportster probably wouldn’t spring to mind as the first choice of bike in order to test out NZ’s much-fabled heavenly tarmac, but I’d been challenged with the new XL1200CB for a quick 1700km autumn foray across the country’s North Island.

As standard, the XL1200CB is a blacked-out bike that punches out its power courtesy of a 1200cc V-twin ‘Evolution’ block which delivers 107Nm at 4000rpm. The bike is designed to appeal to a modern audience with its black denim paint job and matching wheels. Chrome is at a minimum, with the XL1200CB giving off the appearance of an urban street crawler, complete with mini ape-hanger bars.

However, Milwaukee has been pushing the multi-purpose theme quite a bit lately – or in other words, customised to suit the rider who typically wants to prowl through the city or meander to the beach on weekends but can also double up as an adequate tourer for the odd longer jaunt or two. My New Zealand companion was kitted out for such use, which included an adjustable windscreen and saddlebags – otherwise, it was as it looked when it rolled off the production line.

This was my first trip to the country so famed for its motorcycle-paradise roads, but I’d seen enough Peter Jackson movies to know what to expect: postcard mountain ranges, a sheep or two -- or maybe 30 million -- and perhaps the odd hobbit on his way to Mordor. Tagging onto the road trip holiday of some Kiwi friends, I was to use the opportunity as an excuse to catch up with them and grab my first sample of New Zealand on two wheels.

I’d pointed the XL1200CB’s 17-inch front tyre southward to leave Auckland and the built-up sprawl that comes with any city (Auckland is home to over a quarter of the country’s population). Immediately, it was clear that the bike was happy sitting on the 100km/h speed limit for most of the 150km towards Hamilton.

Sufficiently protected from the worst of the higher-speed buffeting thanks to the added factory windscreen (easily adjusted via a simple double-clip mechanism), I had to remind myself that this isn’t a touring bike. The nimble Sporty was doing a good job at disguising itself as such though, making an easy job of cruising State Highway 1.

Onwards to the towns of Tokoroa, Kinleith and Ataimuri, the road -- nicknamed the Thermal Explorer Highway due to the Waikato area’s prominent geothermal activity -- twisted through picturesque pine forest and rolling hills. The first couple of hours riding had been a comfortable introduction to the bike, but the Sporster tipped in keenly to each of the sweeping left-right-left-left-right bends that were a sign of things to come.

Before long, the colossal Lake Taupo, Australasia’s largest body of freshwater, greeted our party to provide the perfect lunch stop. It was just in time too, as the XL1200CB’s tank was fast emptying itself of the 300km worth of fuel it can hold and the next gas station was a couple of hours ride away.

We’d visited the nearby Huka Falls, New Zealand’s most-visited natural attraction on the way into town before aiming for the Body Fuel café with its superb venison pie, just off the waterfront on Tongariro Street. A number of other restaurants provide alternative options for a few hours rest -- though if we had more time we’d have been inclined to stay in order to spend a day taking in the area’s activities which range from horse-riding to ‘jet boat’ rides.

From Taupo, State Highway 5 leads to Napier along textbook asphalt coils that twist through the sun-kissed countryside, coloured deep yellow due to the country’s recent drought (even a couple of sheep I asked also questioned if this was the same green landscape depicted in The Lord of the Rings trilogy). The XL1200CB’s suspension proved firm enough to ensure the bike dipped predictably into each of the road’s fastest corners without drama – though the stiff forks also meant that a shuddering shock was delivered over the harsher potholes and railway crossings encountered en route. That said, the road surfaces were generally immaculate -- all in all, it seemed New Zealand was intent on providing some of the most near perfect riding conditions I can remember experiencing. Good job, God. Good job NZ Transport Agency.

Within 450km from Auckland and a day’s ride lies the Hawke’s Bay area where real life screaming eagles (and other birds of prey) conspicuously soar high in the thermals above or gnaw at the possum road-kill feasts seen in the grass verges. Hawke’s Bay is also famously home to a number of New Zealand’s most renowned wineries, including the likes of Craggy Range, Esk Valley and Clear View (which also offers another excellent lunchtime pit stop and an opportunity to listen to the unmistakable popping of a Harley V-twin cooling down). Cellar doors are easily accessible from Napier’s neighboring towns; Hastings or the tranquil Havelock North offers lodgings for various budgets, with the latter being nearest to Te Mata Park mountain peak with its awesome vistas over the vineyards below.

The next stop was to be Rotorua, but with the most direct route to be the way we had already travelled the decision was made to maximise riding time and take the long way round. Thanks to the XL1200CB’s highway pegs and forward controls (and consequential relaxed leg positioning), a set-standard of comfort was always on offer -- though three or four continuous hours in the saddle would inevitably leave me wanting for a seat more akin to those found on H-D’s higher-spec Touring family models.

Following the Hawke’s Bay coast for 150km along State Highway 2 to Wairoa, the XL1200CB’s biggest limitation became clear… every time I stopped to gawk at one the marvelous views I’d be forced to unpack my camera from the non-lockable saddlebags. An obvious inconvenience, but H-D’s Motor Parts & Accessories catalogue does offer alternative options.

From Wairoa, the Frasertown Rd and Lake Rd combined for 65km to lead to the stunning Urewara National Park. The road here is flawlessly carved out of the hillsides and for some part, dramatically traces the banks of Lake Waikaremoana before rolling a further 150km towards Rotorua, a region famous for being at the heart of Maori culture.

The distinctive smell of sulphur and other geothermal gases, prominent due to the territory's volcanic activity, told me we had reached Rotorua long before the town’s road sign appeared. Once accustomed to the potent pong, exploring Rotorua – complete with its bubbling hot spring caldrons – and its many other activities are a must. There’s something for all, from wild whitewater rafting to more relaxed Polynesian spa options.

Onwards with the route, State Highway 33 leads towards Te Puke before rejoining State Highway 2 to parallel the Tauranga Harbour coast and the Bay of Plenty. The road is, quite simply, a joy to ride -- with views of the region’s numerous islands speckled against deep blue sea making it as scenic as can be. From Waihi, State Highway 25 points to Whangamata, a relaxing beachside town which was to be our penultimate stop and ideal for a couple of days surfing or fishing. Unfortunately, we didn’t have as much luck as the local boys on a boat that pulled in a 2m, 157kg Striped Marlin while we were left struggling with some dinner plate-sized Snapper just across the water!

Sensibly swapping from the boat back to two wheels, the saddlebags were again loaded to head north. While limited in terms of space and by the fact that they can’t be locked or removed, the slim-line bags don’t affect the XL1200CB’s agility. And with the Sportster eating up every bend in the road, it was soon apparent that the North Island’s very best was yet to come as the much-famed Coromandel welcomed us. With almost 200km of snaking twists and bends forming a gigantic loop to link Tairua, Whitianga Harbour, Mercury Bay, Whangapoua Harbour, Manaia Harbour and Thames (from where Auckland is just a further 115km), the Coromandel is biking bliss -- the final hurrah of a perfect week’s ride.

A trip on such glorious roads would be a delight on most bikes, but it is a testament to H-D that 1700km on the XL1200CB was accomplished with such notable ease. What Harley has done is create a minimalist Sportster that can serve as the perfect toy in town, but can also play at being a mini Switchback or Road King of sorts on longer trips.

On city roads, you just can’t help but enjoy the XL1200CB – it’s the type of bike that begs to have its footpegs scraped on every roundabout. However, the real genius comes in offering its rider the option of transforming this accomplished urban machine into one which can offer the same innocent satisfaction on lengthier rides also. Okay, so the XL1200CB doesn’t have the high-tech gismos that come as standard on most bikes designed to go further than the supermarket – actually, it doesn’t even have a rev counter, let alone a fuel gauge. And so what if its seat is only designed for a few hours use at a time…What it offers instead is the chance to own a bike which can be used every day or every so often -- the point is, Harley-Davidson gives its customers the option. Thanks to a few simple modifications, the latter is feasible. Who’d have thought it?   

What’s more, it could be argued that its reduction in scale and weight - compared with more conventional tourers -- best serves the XL1200CB for touring. Exploring and exploiting country backroads on the nimble Sporty offers the sort of enjoyment that is expected from a smaller-scaled, lighter motorcycle. This is a bike that first and foremost offers fun over function but there is a happy balance between the two.

For $17,995 ($NZ17,150), the XL1200CB offers two bikes in one then – as well as the prestige of Harley ownership -- all at a very competitive price. The added joy experienced every time the ignition key is turned is included for free -- though I’m sure New Zealand’s roads, God’s gift to motorbike riders, helped guarantee this

The accessories fitted to the New Zealand bike were a turn signal relocation kit ($103.11), synthetic saddlebags ($458.46) and the windshield ($429.80).

PERFORMANCE
Claimed maximum power: Not given
Claimed maximum torque: 100Nm at 3250rpm

TRANSMISSION
Type: Five speed
Final drive: Chain
Clutch: Wet

CHASSIS AND RUNNING GEAR
Front suspension: Telescopic fork
Rear suspension: Twin shocks
Front brakes: Disc with dual-piston caliper
Rear brake: Disc with single-piston caliper
Wheels: Steel laced
Tyres: Front 130/90-16, rear 150/80-16

OTHER STUFF
Price: $17,995
Colour: Black
Test bike supplied by: Harley-Davidson Australia/New Zealand, www.harley-davidson.com/en_AU/Content/Pages/home.html
Warranty: 24 months, unlimited kilometres