How to test ride a motorcycle

A motorcycle test ride is often the final stage of what can be a long buying journey – so it's worth getting right.

Whether you're buying new or used, let’s examine at a few cold hard facts before you grab that key…

Before taking any bike for a spin, check that you will be covered by the owner's insurance if you happen to crash. Ask the owner whether they expect you to cough up for all repairs or just the excess. You will need to pay the excess, especially if the crash was your fault.

Is the owner even happy to offer a test ride? In private sales most will, but some won't – and some may only offer to take you for a test ride as a pillion. Are you happy to assume that risk?

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Hop on the bike and see how it feels – take a minute to see how comfortable it is (or not!) and whether you can manage its size and weight. Is the seat height okay? Is there enough leg room? Will it suit the sort of riding you want to do?

Do a walkaround, checking that all the lights and indicators work, while also noting any existing damage. Look for crash damage: scraped engine cases, scratched exhaust pipes, ground-down ends on the clutch and brake levers. If anything looks askew, it’s a red flag.

Okay, let’s do it. Is the engine cold or warm? Ideally, you'll be firing it up from cold. If the engine is already warm, has the owner warmed it up to hide an issue? If a bike doesn't start easily, has a less-than-perky battery, or blows smoke, it’s all more likely to show up with a cold start.

Move the handlebars through their full range from lock to lock. It should move freely, without any notches, otherwise the steering head bearings could need adjusting or replacing – ditto if you feel any knocking when rocking the bike’s weight forward and back at a standstill with the front brake on.

Check things like tyres, chain and sprockets, and brake pads and discs for wear. Replacing these things can quickly see a second-hand ‘bargain’ become a money pit. Check underneath the bike’s engine for any oil leaks and check the fork legs for any signs of oil too – leaky fork seals the likely culprit.

Ensure the bike is in neutral, sidestand up, and clutch in, before you press the starter. Some bikes have safety cut-outs to prevent the engine turning over unless you've ticked all three boxes. Does the bike fire up willingly, with just a quick press, before settling down into a nice, even idle?

If you're unfamiliar with the local area, ask the seller to recommend a reasonable sort of test loop – something that will give you at least, say, 20 minutes of ride time. They may want to take a copy of your licence details and some assurance that you won't ride off into the sunset – perhaps the keys to whatever you turned up on or in.

And ask the seller if there are any faults or foibles you should be aware of, and that the tyres are correctly inflated.

Is the bike being offered with a current roadworthy certificate? If you buy the bike, you'll need one to transfer the registration. If the bike doesn't come with one, it's safest to demand that it does, to avoid any nasty surprises.

When you’re out on the road, get a feel for the bike’s handling and manoeuvrability – a bit of slow speed weaving from side to side is a good place to start (provided you’re in a quiet area and it’s safe to do so).

Does the bike accelerate smoothly, without any hesitation? Does it have the sort of performance you're after?

How does it ride the bumps? How does it feel tipping into and tracking through the bends? Does it want to run wide on the corners, or turn in sharply to the inside of the bends? This could just be a matter of acclimatising to a different bike, or it could be down to incorrect tyre pressures, badly worn tyres, sad suspension, or a sign of a bent chassis.

Taking a speed bump at a slower speed can be revealing too – there shouldn’t be any knocking or bottoming out. Try to find roads that will reflect your intended usage, and don't be afraid to see how it handles a few potholes along the way. Work the suspension – does the fork dive suddenly under brakes, or is it composed and controlled?

How is the transmission? Does the bike shift lightly and precisely? Is it easy finding neutral at a standstill? Does the clutch lever have a light and progressive action, or does it require the strength of a gorilla to operate? If the latter, it doesn't bode well for commuting.

Does the clutch slip? Try accelerating hard from around 70km/h in fourth – if the revs go through the roof while the bike loses momentum, a clutch replacement is likely due.

Find a quiet, safe place to give the brakes a decent go – something sufficient to produce nice, progressive, strong deceleration. If the brakes feel wooden or squeal, the pads could be contaminated or the discs could be glazed. And if the front brakes shudder or produce some ‘pulsing’ at the lever, you’re looking at warped discs. You can replace them, or possibly have them ground flat, but either way it’s extra expense.

Check the temperature gauge to see that the bike’s engine temperature is where it should be. And when you’re back at the seller’s address, let the bike idle for a few minutes to check that the cooling fan (if fitted) kicks in as it should. While you're there, have another good listen to the engine for any suspicious noises. Then shut the bike down and start it up again, to check it handles hot starts okay too.

If it all looks good, then it’s time to haggle. Are there items you’ll need to replace? Is it nearly due for its next scheduled service? Is it coming up to registration renewal time? They’re all potential bargaining chips.

Test-riding a bike is an important part of the buying process. Be tough, thorough and honest. Know what to look for and you'll find the bike that suits you and your budget best. And remember: if the bike doesn't feel right, it probably isn't!

This article was originally published on September 13, 2022.