Advice: How to buy second-hand

Buying a new motorcycle has its advantages. You know its entire history; you're covered by a factory warrant and, with a seemingly endless supply of new models rolling off production lines, you've got all the time in the world to make a calm and considered decision.

However, not everyone can afford – nor are they inclined – to purchase a brand-spanking-new motorcycle. Generally higher in price, depreciation can be a killer and if you're new to riding a brand-new motorcycle may not make good sense.

There will always be a certain amount of risk when it comes to buying a secondhand motorcycle from a private classified ad but, if you're sufficiently armed with enough knowledge, taking the risk can be both rewarding and addictive.

Once you've spotted a bike you're interested in, locate an image of the make, model and colour of the bike as it was when introduced to Australian market. Tell-tale signs of a crash repair may be as simple as spotting a non-genuine decal or tank badge, or one that's missing altogether.

Look for any signs of damage on its extremities such as handlebar and footpeg ends, and have a good look at the underside of the bike, too. Here you might spot a rusty exhaust seam or a bent bracket.

As well as the amount of tread left on the tyres, check the sidewall for any cracks and look for any dents or damage to the rims.

Note the condition of the chain and sprockets and you'll usually find the battery underneath the seat – check that the terminals aren't corroded.

A full service history is the best way to know that a motorcycle has been well looked after and, if the original owner's manual is still with the motorcycle, it's a bonus.

It's a good idea to sight the registration papers, because even though the advert may say it comes with three months' rego, it may have been listed for sale for four – in which case that rego has now expired.

If it's a particularly old machine, it's not a bad idea to check that the engine and frame numbers match the paperwork while you're looking at it. Mismatched numbers will mean a nightmarish amount of red tape, not to mention a significant drop in value.

Ask the seller why he or she is moving it on, and know the price of replacement consumables (such as tyres, chain, sprockets and battery) so you're in a better position to negotiate the price if any of these need replacing.

Place your hand on the engine cases and make sure the engine is cold. If it's warm, it may indicate the seller is trying to hide the fact that it's difficult to start when it's cold.

Problematic suspension may be spotted by holding the front brake and pushing down on the handlebars; any noise or knocking may indicate an issue. Do the same at the rear: with the bike upright, apply downward pressure to the rear of the bike and listen and feel for anything untoward.

The condition of the wheel bearings can be checked by holding the outside of the tyres on opposite sides and feeling if there's any side-to-side movement – there shouldn't be so much as a millimeter.

While you're there, run your fingers along the surface of the brake discs and ensure there aren't any deep grooves or a significant lip around the outside edge. You're looking for a disc of between 4-5mm thick and with no or only very shallow ridges, depending on the age of the bike.

Once the bike has been started and you're waiting for it to warm up, run over the bike's electrical items to make sure they're all working. High and low beam; the horn; all four indicators; check the brake light illuminates with use of both the front brake lever and the rear brake pedal; and make sure the corresponding dash lights are in order.

Once on board, you're just checking that it accelerates cleanly as you shift up through all the gears. This doesn't mean you need to rev it out between the gears, but you should be able to get up and down through the gearbox without exceeding the 60km/h suburban speed limit.

From a similar speed, brake using both the front and rear brake independently of one another and make sure their operation is smooth and effective.

Ensure the bike feels the same through both left- and right-hand corners – this signals the chassis, front fork and swingarm are all straight. And speaking of straight lines, make sure the bike tracks straight and true with very little input to the handlebars.

And, of course, imagine yourself spending a lot of time on it. If you immediately find it cramped or uncomfortable, it may not be the right bike for you.

Aside from the peace of mind in knowing a brand-new motorcycle doesn't come with a potentially costly chequered history, one of the most significant differences buyers face between opting for new over secondhand is time.

While the salesperson at your local dealer will give you all the thinking time you may or may not need, once you've spotted your dream bike on Bikesales, who's to say a handful of other would-be owners haven't fallen in love with the same bike?

A private seller might tell you there's a pile of other interested buyers in a bid to rush your decision, but don't fall for it. Trust your instincts and take a philosophical approach: if someone gets to it before you feel ready and comfortable to hand over your cash, it wasn't meant to be. There's a better bike for you just around the corner…

Related: The guide to buying second-hand