Honda Hornet 600

Hornet - exactly the right name. Small, agile and as aggressive as a five foot screaming Scotsman in a post-soccer brawl, the aptly named Honda CB600F Hornet is all about riotous behaviour.

HISTORY
Released in 1998 and priced at $9990, the FS model Hornet was fundamentally based on the CBR600F with the 're-tuned' engine housed in a cheap to produce square-section steel-backbone chassis mated to a conventional front-end that featured the 16 inch front wheel from a FireBlade. Brakes were early CBR600 and although only twin caliper - very good.

Styling was new-generation retro and featured a high-rise muffler, a well-shaped seat and for some unfathomable reason a 16 litre tank that only held 15 usable litres. Apart from a few colour changes as the FX model in 1999, the Hornet stayed unchanged through to the FY model in 2000. Then, in response to a question no-one had asked, it received a frame mounted half-fairing to become the Hornet S along with a heart-calming 17 inch front wheel and an extra 5mm of wheelbase for those suffering from the unsettlingly speedy steering. There were revisions to the carbs and air filtration and naturally enough some new colours. The Hornet was discontinued in 2002.

ON THE ROAD
I make no excuses for being besotted with the beautifully well-made CB600F Hornet - distinct from CB900F Hornet that has more in common with the DNA of the long retired CB750 than the mad-arse 600 micro bastard. This 600 is a switchback switch-blade, a machine that causes synaptic somersaults and can lead to involuntary piss-yer-pants laughter.

As we've said the 599cc 16-valve, liquid-cooled, four cylinder engine comes direct from the early CBR600F but wearing a different cylinder head with less steeply-angled inlet tracts, milder cams and smaller carbs to make a claimed 88bhp. Luckily it hasn't made the Hornet any less enjoyable as the engine picks up through a broad range with enough crisp urgency to be both law-loving mild or pin-it and grin-it wicked - take your pick.

The Hornet's chassis features the engine as a stressed member and with a rake and trail of 25.4 degrees and 98mm has geometry that loves the twisty stuff, the upright bars need the slightest hint of pressure to tip into a bend and make use of the generous amounts of rubber at each end. Before you know it, the footrests are trailing arcs of sparks and you're thinking you might just go back and do that again for the hell of it. Mind you it's not all good, the suspension, which is bum basic and pretty soft as new, will by now be saggy and unbalanced. The soft and under-damped forks have no adjustment and the non rising-rate rear shock is limited to preload adjustment only. As for the brakes, they work with enough progressive power and control to lead you on a journey of experience gathering that leads to the confidence to save your life without scaring you. It's easy to see why the Hornet is a worldwide trainers' favourite. 

Is it comfy on a long trip? - Yeah it is, the ergonomics are absolutely spot on for just about any of our species - not that you'll spend a long time in the saddle though as the 16 litres in the fuel tank can disappear at a rate of as little as 11km/l if you work the throttle and gearbox and enjoy the thing. Droning down the freeway will get about 16km/l. Either way you're going to be stopped at a fuel pump with about 200km or less on the trip meter because running on to reserve highlights an annoying idiosyncrasy you'll want to avoid. The reserve tap is hard to find and stupidly small, meaning that the engine will starve and die before you find it and use it - especially with gloves on. Not funny in heavy traffic or halfway past a B-double truck.

Pillions get a reasonable deal so long as it's a short trip. There's not a lot of room on the back pad and that big sausagey hi-level muffler that will cook your pillion's right leg on a hot day and literally peel the skin off with an unguarded aftermarket pipe. However, there's a well made and secure grab-rail as standard and the footrests aren't too bad as far as height goes.

While on the subject of dumb things, one of the great things about the old CBR600 was the retention of the centre stand that made wheel changes and chain oiling easy. There's plenty of room here for one for sure, but it's sadly missing. Another dumb thing is the shorty front guard that allows road crap to flick up all over the front of the engine that was originally protected by a fairing - and trust me it's a nightmare to keep clean.

IN THE WORKSHOP
The CBR600 engine is an amazing piece of engineering; it just doesn't give any trouble - just stick to the service schedule and ride it. Being a hard working four cylinder it needs clean oil every 5000km and a new filter. A dead easy job for the home mechanic so there's no excuses for neglect. As far as valve clearances go, once again it's all good news. They stay in tolerance for surprisingly long periods despite being thrashed relentlessly. The rest of the bike is easy to access and logically put together making it a good choice for those with the time and inclination to get their hands dirty.

Just not you? Then expect to pay about $150 - 175 for a minor service and up to $300 for a major service every 24,000km. Naturally any other items that need replacing will add to the costs but the Hornet is pretty cheap to run really.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR
First of all look for the obvious signs of crash damage. Look for the usual witness marks like scrapes on the end of the footrests, indicators and levers. Are the clocks, mirrors and headlight rim unmarked? Is the front edge of the mudguard unmarked - how about the bar-end weights? All good so far? - Excellent. Be aware some people put MX handlebars on for a streetfighter look but mostly it's because the thing has been on its side. Ask to see the originals. 

Check all the consumables and list them for replacement and their costs. Make sure the chain and sprockets have some life in them and, if possible, get a mate to hold the bike while it's tipped onto the sidestand so you can spin the back wheel and check the chain for tight-spots. Monos will stretch a chain in double quick time. While on that subject, check the steering head bearings, lock stops, fork seals and wheel bearings, all of which get a hammering from the previously mentioned monos.

Get the thing running and have a listen. The CBR engine is a bit noisy mechanically - that's fine because they all are. However listen for camchain rattle. The tensioner is hydraulic and needs oil pressure to operate, so the noise should quieten down pretty quickly. If it continues to rattle and the rest of the bike is in good condition then haggle over the price, as a new chain and tensioner isn't that expensive.

Chances are the key switch will be difficult, a bit of WD40 helps but once again it's normal. Take the bike for a test ride and use all the gears. The Hornet box is typical Honda - notchy and noisy but pretty strong. Incorrect drive chain tension makes things seem a lot worse than they actually are. Load up the gearbox and make sure second gear doesn't feel rough or jump out - the product of brutal monos. If it does, once again you can haggle hard because fixing is pretty easy as turning the engine upside down allows easy access to the gearbox.

Are the bars straight? Check that the forks aren't twisted in the top yoke by looking at the little notch rearward of the steering top nut and see if it lines up with the line on the top of the chassis just forward of the tank while riding in a straight line. Easy to tweak back - but a subtle indicator of a drop of some sort.

MODIFICATIONS
There's a ton of things you could do from the usual pipe and jets to a complete engine swap with a CBR900RR engine. However with ever more draconian policing, having a loud pipe is like getting on a plane wearing a sign saying, "I'm a terrorist with a bomb and a bad attitude." and expecting no-one to notice. So let's do the more subtle changes that make the most of what there is. Suspension as always is a must do, followed by braided lines and the Honda original pads from the CBR600 that offer more bite and power. Get really good tyres - Pilot Sports are brilliant on the Hornet. Oh - and another worthwhile addition would be a Fenda Extenda mudguard extension from Pommy mob Pyramid Plastics.

SUMMING UP
Brilliant fun and utterly reliable the Hornet masquerades as a sensible bike but in reality is quirky and flawed. Sure it'll take you to work and teach you a lot about riding along the way but it'd rather be spilling big blokes' drinks and inciting riotous behaviour. If you want a sensible Hornet then buy the CB900. (sorry Michael)

TRANSMISSION
Type: Six speed, constant mesh
Final drive: Chain

CHASSIS AND RUNNING GEAR
Frame type: Steel backbone
Front suspension: 41mm telescopic fork, non-adjustable
Rear suspension: Mono shock, adjustable for preload
Front Brakes: Twin 296mm discs with two-piston calipers
Rear Brakes Single 240mm disc with single-piston caliper
Tyres: Front: 130/70-16 or 120/70-17, Rear: 180/55-17

DIMENSIONS AND CAPACITIES
Dry weight: 176 kg - 179kg
Seat height: 790mm
Fuel capacity: 16 - 17 litres
Wheelbase: 1420mm - 1425mm

PERFORMANCE
Max power: 88hp at 11750rpm
Max torque: 6.7kg-m at 9250rpm

GLASS'S GUIDE
1998 - $7400
1999 - $7900
2000 - $8500
2001 - $9400
2001 - $10000
2002 - $10500

INSURANCE
2001 Honda CB600 Hornet:
Quote: $293 (12 months)
Standard excess: $350
Sum Insured: Market Value

Comprehensive insurance: Calculated using Western QBE private use insurance premiums allowing for a 30 year old rider with 60% No Claim Bonus (Rating 1), cover restricted to policy holder only, travelling less than 8000km a year and living in Melbourne. GST and stamp duty are included. Other options are available - please call 1800 24 34 64 for details.