FAQ: What's a great first 'big' bike?

What's a great first 'big' bike? After years of riding a LAMS (Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme) motorcycle, you've had plenty of time to ponder your next machine. But before you lay down your hard-earned, and especially if you're feeling a little bewildered, here are some points to consider…

A hike in performance is, for many, one of the prime objectives for riders looking at their first post-LAMS bike. But how do you know what will deliver the thrills and adrenalin you're hankering for, without scaring yourself witless?

It's a very subjective issue, governed largely by the style of bike and type of riding you're interested in, and of course the power-to-weight ratio of your intended purchase.

With a pure focus on speed and performance, litre-class sportsbikes rule the roost. We're talking near enough a one-to-one power-to-weight ratio here, as in one horsepower per kilo, or around 200hp in a package ready to roll at around 200kg. The road-going reality is lightning acceleration and blistering top speeds, aspects that both demand a high level of rider skill. And for those reasons, a litre-class sportsbike isn't a smart first option for those stepping up.

Instead, if your heart is set on a pure sportsbike (and even one with all the latest rider safety aids) we'd recommend spending a year or two on a 'stepping stone' model that lies between LAMS and the big-bore blasters.

The middleweight supersport brigade (think 600cc Japanese inline fours) still offers incredible performance, precision and speed, but they're that bit more forgiving. They're a beaut 'middle ground', allowing you to build your skills more safely before you graduate to the apex predators, and they're still a hoot to punt hard, being light and incredibly agile.

Looking beyond sportsbikes? Anything with north of say 120hp and 100Nm is getting into serious performance territory, and the further you go the sharper your skills should be.

Heavyweight tourers, on the other hand, can have big outputs, especially torque, yet remain fairly docile because of their high weight and relaxed steering geometry (the 'rake' of the front fork, a longer wheelbase etc).

But it takes skill, experience, and a bit of muscle to adequately handle a heavy machine, so they're not an ideal second bike either.

Of course, any bike will only go as fast as you twist the throttle and you know yourself best. Are you level-headed and happy to stick to your own pace when riding with others? Or do you get carried away in the moment, and quickly find bravado overtaking your talent as you try to keep up?

They're both questions only you can answer, and those answers should also inform your next purchase.

We're fortunate to live in a motorcycling age of antilock brakes (ABS), cornering ABS (that automatically adjust braking pressure to account for the bike's angle of lean), traction control, and multiple ride modes (that can vary engine output and throttle response to suit the conditions and your preference).

There are others, but they all help provide an electronic safety net that has saved countless riders from harm in recent years (and countless bikes from the wrecker's yard).

There's a short, clear-cut answer here: for a first 'big' bike, you want as many of these features as possible. And the bigger the jump in performance you're planning, the greater the importance these features take on.

Once again, the best safety feature is your own common sense. There's an old saying: 'There are old riders and bold riders, but very few old and bold riders'. But common sense can't anticipate a mid-apex oil spill, a patch of loose gravel, or a pedestrian unexpectedly darting across a rain-lashed city street. And that's where these modern safety features really come to the fore.

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Your first port of call is probably nailing down your preferred style of bike and riding.

In the early days of motorcycling, for much of the first half of the 20th century, bikes were fairly homogenous things – a chassis, an engine, two wheels and a handlebar.

These days, the motorcycling pie can be cut in any of about a dozen or more odd slices, from cruisers to tourers, adventure bikes to sportsbikes, dirt bikes to naked bikes and on it goes. And each major segment can then be broken down into numerous sub-segments.

So, what appeals to you and – more importantly – does that style of bike match the sort of riding you want to enjoy? Cruisers may evoke the image of endless highway miles, but the reality is their lack of bodywork means the wind pressure exacerbates fatigue, a smaller fuel tank may mean more regular stops than you'd like, and the ride position – which often places a lot of weight right on the base of your spine – isn't ideal over distance.

The solution? Maybe opt for a 'bagger' instead, with a front fairing and screen, larger tank, and luggage (either soft saddlebags – hence the name 'bagger' – or hard cases).

Conversely, the idea of interstate touring might appeal but if the reality is you'll spend much more time on the bike commuting in the city, you'll want a lighter, narrower and more nimble machine – not a heavyweight tourer that's a struggle to manage in stop-start traffic.

Want sports performance but with added comfort? Maybe a streetfighter is a better match. These bikes typically have a sportsbike-derived chassis and engine, but more relaxed ergonomics with a more upright ride position.

Will you be regularly taking a pillion? If that's on the cards, you'll need to consider their comfort too.

Ultimately, it's all about compromise – a matter of working out your wants and needs, and working back from there.

Of course, if money's no object, you're in a different category altogether – then you can have half-a-dozen bikes in the shed, each with a different focus!

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While cars are accessible to just about any able-bodied driver, motorcycles are a different matter. A rider's physical size and strength will play a role in selecting your first unrestricted bike, and it cuts both ways. Shorter folk may well find some bikes simply too tall or heavy to manage with confidence, while taller types will find some bikes way too cramped for comfort.

Big-bore adventure bikes (see our latest Adventure bike buyer's guide, over 900cc) typically have super-roomy ergonomics, with heaps of leg room and an upright ride position, but most have a towering seat height too.

While a typical seat height for a road motorcycle may fall somewhere around 830mm, these big dual-purpose machines can sometimes have seat heights pushing towards 900mm.

Couple that with a decent weight (say, anything with a wet weight of 230kg or more), and that's a lot of bulk to get up off a sidestand, pull onto a centrestand, or push around the shed in general, let alone to pick up off the deck if it ever goes over.

Sportsbikes are typically light and compact, which means bigger riders will have to endure more discomfort than smaller ones, while naked bikes are generally a good 'Goldilocks' option for many – not too heavy, not too light; not too tall, not too short.

Before you go splashing thousands on your first bike big, think about upgrading your riding gear first. There's a tendency among novice riders, caught up in the rush of their newfound passion, to spend most of their dollars on the bike itself and then skimp on the riding gear.

In reality, it should be the other way around – spend up on a comprehensive set of good gear, then see what you have left over for the bike.

If you scraped through your LAMS years with a cheap no-name helmet and minimal other gear, now is the right time to address that. Unrestricted bikes usually spell faster acceleration, higher speeds and more miles, so you want to be confident your gear is up to scratch if plans unexpectedly head south.

As ever, we're talking a decent helmet, jacket, riding trousers (Kevlar-lined motorcycle jeans, not regular jeans), gloves and boots at a minimum. Into sports riding? Then factor in full leathers and a back protector too.

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So how many kays do you plan to rack up? If you're doing a daily commute, or if you plan on three or four interstate epics each year, you'll be spending a lot more on servicing and consumables (tyres, brake pads, chains etc) than someone who only plans on heading out once a month for a day's ride.

Also, the more riding you do, the more the drawbacks of any motorcycle come into play. You might be willing to put up with some aches and pains on your head-down, bum-up sportsbike if you're only using it for three or four hours each month, but that discomfort may well become a deal-breaker if you're riding every day, or even every weekend. Again, it's all about compromise.

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It's nice to dream (and browsing the thousands of listings here on bikesales is a great place to start!), but back in the real world we're all limited by how much we have to spend. And when it comes to your first 'big' bike, chances are you'll be spending a wad more than you did on your LAMS machine.

When you're working out that budget, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, what will insurance set you back? Do you need a fully comprehensive policy, or will third-party, fire and theft suit your needs? Do you want breakdown coverage?

Are there accessories you'll need to purchase (and have fitted) so the bike does what you need it to do? This could include a centrestand (or race stand for sportsbikes), to let you lubricate and maintain your bike's chain easily, to factory luggage (panniers and/or a topbox), a windscreen – the list goes on.

When buying second-hand there's even more to consider. Does it need new tyres? A new chain and sprockets? Is it due for its next major service? When is its rego due? All that stuff can quickly add up, making that 'bargain buy' anything but.

And for peace of mind, don't forget to order a BikeFacts report from our sister site, Redbook.com.au, to ensure your new machine is everything the owner says it is.

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Riding a motorcycle requires skill, and building (and maintaining) skill safely requires not just regular practise, but expert tuition along the way. Jumping up in power, speed and weight means now more than ever is a great time to book in for some intermediate or advanced rider training.

Want to be faster, smoother and safer? You could look at some track-based courses. Heading off-road? An enduro, motocross or adventure-bike course might be more your style.

But all motorcycling comes back to the same basics – eye direction, throttle control, body position – so there's lots to be gained from more general courses that zero in on these fundamentals.

Motorcycle courses are fun to do and you'll end up a safer and better rider for doing them – that adds confidence, and you'll enjoy your riding even more as a result.

And remember, our skills go off over time; everyone benefits from rider training, no matter what their level of experience.

So buy that bike, take some time to adjust to its weight and performance, then book in for a course.

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Whatever you decide to buy, try to take a test ride on your chosen bike before you seal the deal. Read as many reviews about that model as you can find, and ask the opinion of other riders who've been around the block a few times.

And be sure to scan all the listings here on bikesales, both for used bikes and for new bikes in our New Bike Showroom, to get a feel for prices and all the finer details. It's all food for thought.

Every rider remembers two bikes in particular – their first bike, and their first big bike. You've already ticked off the first, now get out there and find the second!