Exploring Tasmania with the 2022 BMW GS Safari

After two COVID-affected years, the 2022 BMW GS Safari made its way down to Tasmania, and it proved to be a raging success. The 250-odd places sold out within minutes, forcing organisers to put on an unprecedented second week.

Punters from across the globe made their way down to Hobart for the annual GS pilgrimage, with a great mix of loyal veterans and new riders looking to experience the Safari for the first time.

The BMW Safari is an institution these days, having emerged in 1994 with a ride from Sydney to Fraser Island. Today, it is responsible for three annual events – the road-based TS Safari, the traditional GS Safari, and the hardcore GS Safari Enduro.

While the GS nameplate originated in 1980, and has been boosted globally by the Dakar Rally and the Long Way Round television series, the GS Safari has arguably done more for the brand in Australia than any marketing campaign ever could. The iconic and distinctly-Australian event is the envy of the motorcycling world.

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Arriving in Hobart, the sheer size of the event was immediately evident. In every direction were GS machines parked in front of hotels, supermarkets, cafes and pubs. Another hint was that, for some of the smaller destinations like St Helens, the GS Safari had booked out nearly every hotel in town.

Riders on the GS Safari are an interesting bunch. They come from various walks of life, but a common theme was that they were from an older, and often cashed-up, demographic. An official average age of 58, and an army of up-spec R 1250 GS’s is proof of that point.

Still, riders come here not to be businessmen, builders, lawyers, doctors, or retirees; they come here to be motorcyclists. And when they all stepped into the room at the riders briefing in Hobart, they were united by two letters and a passion for adventure.

Most of the GS Army came down to Tassie on the Spirit, before making their way to Hobart for the start of the event. The first few days saw the troupe head up the wild West Coast to Strachan, before cutting a loop around the incredible North West region.

Highlights include the Pieman River ferry crossing at Corinna and a journey through the epic Great Lakes area. The ride returned to Hobart on the third day, which is where yours truly joined in.

As Day 4 arrived, I was handed the keys to a 2021 BMW R 1250 GS Adventure Rallye. I didn’t know it at the time, but the bike belonged to Safari organiser, Chris ‘Urk’ Urquhart. It was probably a good thing I didn’t have that information, because riding the bossman’s bike adds an extra layer of nervousness.

Teaming up with Dave Darcy of MADTV and Australian Adventure Bike Magazine fame, I left Hobart for my first BMW GS Safari experience. It was an epic day which included some awesome tarmac roads, flowing dirt trails, and even some tricky and technical off-road sections.

Given the GS Safari caters for an extremely wide range of abilities (as it must with 250 riders), the overall difficulty is quite low for experienced riders. But there are still a few little surprises that can catch you out, like a tricky creek crossing, or a few rocky fire trails.

I learned this the hard way on a tougher ‘Red’ section, when I got a little too confident and lost the front on a slippery corner. The bike ended up pointing down an embankment and we needed four blokes to drag it back to high ground. Unluckily, Dave caught much of the dilemma on camera.

As we rode into the coastal town of Bicheno for a lunch stop, the rain rolled in. After a bite to eat in the local fish and chip shop, I saddled back up and braved the cold. By the time I got into St Helens a couple of hours later, I was just about frozen (and I usually like the cold!).

A rider’s briefing in St Helens got everyone fired up for the final day. Fortunately, the rain had cleared when we departed the following morning. It was a very dirt-heavy day with a climb up the famous Jacob’s Ladder acting as one of the final challenges for the week.

The first stop was in the town of Matthina. I needed fuel, so I found the petrol station and loaded up the big GSA with 95. When I went to pay, however, I realised it wasn’t a petrol station at all, but a pub. More specifically, it was the Matthina Country Club. It took great willpower not to buy a schooner of Boags with the tank of unleaded.

By the time we got to Jacob’s Ladder, the rain had come back. There was already a big group of riders heading up and down the mountain. Jacob’s Ladder is a narrow dirt road with sharp switchbacks that climbs steeply up the side of Ben Lomond. On a clear day, the views are epic. But in whiteout conditions, like we were faced with, it becomes a bigger challenge.

For many riders, making it up and down Jacob’s Ladder was a big achievement – especially after Safari stalwart Miles Davis struck the fear of God into everyone the night before. It acted as an excellent finale for the week, and was made even more dramatic by a brief snow shower.

After descending back down to Earth, the rain kicked it up a notch. By the time I got to Ringarooma, I was soaked again, and I needed a stop at the Scottsdale pub for a parma and some warmth.

The final tarmac section into Launceston was arguably the toughest for me as I fought off hypothermia with some serious self-talk and a bit of karaoke (it works, trust me). I discovered that heated grips are a life-saver, but it took a lot of mental fortitude to get back in one piece. Like I said earlier, I usually like the cold, but having proper winter gear is essential (which I didn’t).

Still, the battle with the cold only added to the adventure and capped off a great couple of days in the Tassie wilderness. While I was only there for two of the five days, it was enough to give me an insight into why this event is so popular.

The BMW Safari team, led by Shane Booth, Chris Urquhart, and Anthea Verndoon, runs an incredibly tight ship. The GS Safari is a well-oiled machine and the work that the team puts into it is nothing short of amazing. New riders are welcomed like family, and that is why many riders come back year after year. The comradery and atmosphere on the GS Safari is worth the price of admission alone.

BMW Motorrad Australia also contributes significantly to the event too. And it should, because the GS Safari is the ultimate marketing tool, and I have no doubt that there are punters who have bought bikes just so they can take part. Even I now have a strong urge to buy an R 1250 GSA. Can someone please send an exorcist? The Spirit of GS is taking over me.

Speaking of which, the BMW R 1250 GS Adventure is an incredible bike. Every time I ride it, I’m reminded of how capable, comfortable and fun it is. There are other adventure bikes out there that arguably have better off-road chops, but the GSA is the ultimate multi-tool. And it does it with supreme style too. An event of this calibre is only as good as the product it is promoting, and maybe that’s a big part of why the Safari has stood the test of time.

As the event came to a close with a lavish farewell dinner in Launceston, I was once again struck by the unique bond that the riders and Safari staff have. It really is a family affair.

I was also blown away by the generosity of many BMW owners during an auction to raise money for the Royal Flying Doctors Service. As Safari staffer Tim (ironically the team’s medic) led the auction, the price for a Safari-branded helmet skyrocketed to $16,500. The winning bidder was a man named Dusty (not Martin) and he was also given a free Safari for 2023 and the coveted No.1 plate.

As I said earlier, the GS owners are a cashed-up bunch, and they had no hesitation in opening up their wallets for a very worthwhile cause.

Overall, I was extremely impressed with the BMW GS Safari, and I want express my gratitude to both the Safari and BMW Motorrad teams for having me along.

The GS Safari is a unique event which many have tried to emulate, but few have succeeded in truly capturing the same spirit and passion. Of course, for many GS riders, the Safari is quite the challenge, but that is what makes it special. It is an adventure after all.

At the time of writing, an official announcement on the 2023 BMW GS Safari location was yet to be made, but bikesales has been told it will likely be Phillip Island, Victoria to Blue Mountains, New South Wales.