Advice: Buying second-hand tips and costings

What do you look for to make sure the ‘bargain’ you just bought doesn’t turn out to be such a bargain after all?

There are a number of wearable parts on a motorcycle that on inspection will give you an idea of how much money you’re likely to have to spend on this prospective purchase in the short term, and whether or not it is indeed a bargain.

Looking for bikes owned by enthusiasts are often a much better bet than buying off a person who’s more into their machine as a means of transport. Enthusiasts often fit numerous accessories to their bikes, the cost of which can run into thousands of dollars, and they tend to be maintained better.

And if you can’t trust yourself to make an informed decision on the bike then take a friend along, preferably one who knows something about motorcycles and can also keep you in check if need be.

One last thing you should factor in is not only the cost of replacing the worn parts but the cost of fitting them at a reputable workshop, if you can’t do it yourself. Labour costs these days pretty much start at $100 an hour, and most of the jobs listed below can be labour intensive.

We’ve done our best to give you a guide as to costs, but this is just a guide, and is often dependent on other underlying issues with the motorcycle which are found when it goes in for some relatively simple repair.

Good luck.

Tyres
These are the most obvious things that stand out. Tyres have a wear indicator on the tread pattern, and they are not hard to find. When the tyre has worn down to that wear mark you are legally required to replace it. That’s the first thing to check for, but so is uneven wear. Front tyres tend to wear on the right side of the tyre due to the camber of the road.

The wear can look quite uneven and wavy, and when like this the bike will feel weird to ride. Rear tyres will usually wear more in the middle, leaving a flat area. Once again, the bike will feel weird to ride, and will often resist tipping into corners. This can be mistaken for a problem with the bike where it’s usually the tyre itself.

Related reading
What makes a good tyre?

If we are talking a small capacity commuter or scooter, then those sort of small tyres can be bought for a couple of hundred dollars a pair at the cheaper end. They usually last for around 10,000km, too, as the limited power outputs, and low weights of commuters and scooters don’t tax the tyres hard at all. You can pay a bit more if you want to buy better known brands or sportier compounds but expect to factor in around $250 if you need a pair of tyres.

Wider tyres on larger capacity motorcycles will cost more to replace. There’s a large variety of tyres on the market in these wider sizes, ranging from touring compounds to full on sports and the prices usually go up depending on the grip levels they offer. Prices start from around $400 a pair for a set of 17-inch tyres in a 120/180 front rear width combo. They can cost much more of course but this is entry-level guide. You should also factor in at least $30 a tyre to have them fitted if you are riding your bike in to a workshop and getting the mechanic to remove the wheels to fit the tyres.

Chains and sprockets
These are often overlooked by inexperienced buyers but are another easy to check possible expense. It’s always prudent to ask when they were last changed but a quick look will show you if there’s been any love lavished on the chain during the previous owner’s tenure.

The condition of the chain can be checked, regardless of how good or bad it looks, by finding the three o’clock spot on the rear sprocket and pulling the chain to the rear. If you can pull the chain back far enough that you can see the bottom of the sprocket tooth then the chain is well and truly fried.

Also spin the back wheel if the bike has a centrestand and look for any small kinks in the chain links or if there’s a tight spot. Yes it requires getting down on your hands and knees to check but while you’re there check out the condition of the sprockets. If the teeth are curved then they too are ready for the scrap bin. It’s best to replace the chain and sprockets as a set but you can just do the chain by itself if the sprockets are okay.

Prices range greatly for chains and sprockets. At the cheaper end a pair of sprockets for small bikes can be bought for $30, quality brands for at least double that. Chains for smaller bikes start at $50. If you’re looking at chains and sprockets for larger machines you can expect to pay up to $350 for good quality chains and sprockets. You get what you pay for. If you need to get them fitted, factor in at least another $100, as it takes around an hour to fit a set of chains and sprockets.

If you are unsure, listen for graunching and unusual loud noises from the rear end of the bike during your test ride. If it’s making lots of nasty sounds, then you can bet the chain and sprockets are ready for the bin.

Suspension
As a general rule, more expensive bikes tend to have better quality suspension, with top line newer models boasting lots of electronic wizardry in that department. The majority of motorcycle owners never look at their machine’s suspension unless they are true enthusiasts and have had it modified to suit their specific style of riding. Suspension servicing is often an overlooked part of motorcycle ownership, and if a bike has say 50,000km on it with no history of suspension servicing then you can bet the ride quality will not be anything like it was when new.

Look for leaks around the shaft of the rear shock, and also around the forks. If the forks leak badly, the oil will often find its way onto the front brake pads, impregnate the pad material and render the pads almost useless. Once again, a thorough look around the fork and brake area will highlight if this is the case. Getting a motorcycle repair shop to replace the fork seals will cost near enough to $200 these days, for a basic naked machine. More if the removal of the forks is a more involved process.

Related reading
The importance of suspension servicing

Budget rear shock absorbers are usually a throw away item, as many are not designed to be rebuilt.

Ones that can be rebuilt will start around $500 for a bike fitted with a single shock, and prices for a budget new single shock will be at least $500. This is a very grey area, as you can’t just fit a dodgy Internet bought new shock on a bike fitted new with a better quality item, and expect it to be safe. Good quality single shocks really start from $1000 minimum, and a set of aftermarket twin shocks from $500.

There are some very good suspension experts around who will service/rebuild your forks and shock, and re-valve them to suit you. This is usually at least $750 but very worthwhile if you do lots of riding.

Steering head and wheel bearings
One tell-tale sign the steering head bearings are shot is a bike which has notchy steering. If the bike has a centrestand then get the owner to push the back of the bike down to get the front wheel off the ground. Turn the handlebars side to side slowly, feeling for any flat spots or notchiness in the steering.

Badly worn steering head bearings will have a major flat spot, normally when the front wheel is facing straight ahead. You can also notice this during the test ride, especially if they are very worn. Replacing them isn’t a massive job for a motorcycle workshop but does involve pulling out the forks, triple clamps, and sometimes fairings and dashes. Expect the cost of steering head bearing replacement to start at $200.

Wheel bearings can also be easily checked with the bike on the stand. Sitting or kneeling down besides the front and rear wheels, grab the tyres with your hands at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. Rock the wheel back and forth and feel for movement. If the bearings are in good condition you shouldn’t be able to feel any slop in the wheel at all. If you can feel say 5mm then the bike will be terrible and downright dangerous to ride.

Getting a shop to remove both wheels and replace the bearings, then put it all back together will be a $250 exercise at least.

Brakes
It’s always good to take a torch to help with your inspection. It’s very useful for checking the brake pads. New pads vary in original thickness, depending on the manufacturer. As mentioned before, if the pads are covered in oil from leaking fork seals you will need to replace them. A good guide for pad replacement is if the pad material is less or thinner than the steel backing plate. If it is then replacement is due.

You can run them down to the backing plate but as the pad material gets thinner it will transfer more heat to the disc itself, and in severe cases can warp the disc. You can buy cheap pads for not much more than $10 a side, but these tend to be poor quality, hard and can wear your discs quickly. Plus the performance they offer is questionable compared to better quality. Modern four-piston calipers will set you back between $120-200 for top brands.

Also check the discs for grooves. If the top edge of the disc is wider than the main part of the disc, where the brake caliper and pads sit, then it’s most likely due for replacement. It will feel like the disc has a lip at the outer edge of it. Aftermarket discs can be bought from many motorcycle stores, and depending on your type of bike will usually start at $100 a side, going up from there, especially if you buy genuine parts. A modern sports tourer’s discs will cost around $300 a pair for aftermarket.

Also look at the brake and clutch (if it has a hydraulic clutch) master cylinders. Are they leaking? Do the brakes feel spongy? Is the braking performance poor but the pads look fine? If so there’s usually an issue somewhere, and rarely will a bleed of the system fix it. You can buy rebuild kits for master cylinders and these can cost as little as $50 but unless you are a handy home mechanic then it’s a job best left to professionals.

If the calipers are covered in dirt and the brake lever feels hard, then the calipers themselves could need rebuilding. If replacement caliper pistons and seals are needed, then the expense can get a bit out of hand. For example, fully rebuilding the front and rear master cylinders, replacing caliper pistons and replacing brake pads can cost you $500 minimum.

Electrics
Modern motorcycles can have a plethora of electrics on them, which can cost you plenty if they go bad. A friend recently bought a modern V-twin sports tourer for an extremely cheap price, because the ABS module had thrown in the towel. The replacement price was near half what the bike was worth, so the owner sold it for the price of the replacement module. No problems, my friend now rides it with the ABS inoperative.

Any electrical box on a modern machine can cost more than you think. I won’t delve into the world of crash damaged bikes here, as replacement dashes can cost lots. If you are unsure it’s best to do some homework on the cost of whatever is wrong with the bike. If you buy on spec and get a motorcycle mechanic to try and work out why the bike doesn’t run, then you can get bitten badly.

Engine
Modern engines are pretty long-lasting if maintained correctly. If the seller can produce a service history then that’s a good guide to the engine’s health. People tend to worry too much about the engine condition. If it’s got 50,000km, it’s not worn out as some believe. If it’s running sweet, not blowing smoke, and there’s no odd mechanical noises coming from inside, then the engine should be okay. Check the oil, if it’s black and the seller reckons he changed it 500km ago then he or she’s probably spinning you a line.

It’s best to research the model of bike you’re going to look at. Does it have a common issue? If so, then take special note of that. My Yamaha MT-10 for example, has a slightly noisy valve train, and apparently ‘they all do that sir’ is actually correct. It’s the hydraulic cam chain tensioner doing its job and a normal aspect of the bike’s engine operation.

Check to see how far away the next major service is. A major service is much more than an oil and filter, and usually involves valve clearances, air filters, brake and clutch fluid replacement and much more. Some bikes will cost upwards of $1000 for a major service, although small capacity commuters and scooters are much less.

Look for oil leaks around the engine. Does the clutch slip? If so, they will cost you money.

A lovingly maintained bike is always a smarter purchase than a cheap nail that’s been abused. Yes it might be more expensive at first but by the time you’ve replaced the worn out pieces on that ‘bargain’, then you could well be behind financially.