Adventure bike set-up made simple

Readying your bike for an adventure – whether it is interstate, across the continent, or even around the world – requires thoughtful preparation. The type of bike you ride doesn’t matter so much, so long as that bike is well sorted and maintained.

Our tips below focus on set-up for adventure-style bikes, because they are the most popular choice for serious overland travel, but the broad information applies just as well to road bikes even if the specifics may differ slightly.

The key thing is to think carefully about where you want to go, what you want to take, and how long you intend to be away. Set your bike up accordingly, leave room for contingencies and the unexpected, and you’ll be well on your way to memorable motorcycle adventure.

Setting up an adventure bike is a great opportunity to really get to know your machine. You don’t need to be a qualified mechanic, but it definitely helps to have some familiarity with your bike’s systems and equipment before you head off.

Fitting your own accessories (where practical) and doing basic maintenance such as oil and filter changes and chain adjustments is a great way to learn how your bike works. If you’re a complete novice, find a friend who’s handy with the spanners and ask them to step you through some jobs. It will do wonders for your confidence and also help you to get better at spotting issues before they become problems.

Throughout the set-up process, it’s super important to take the bike for regular runs to test the new additions and ensure they work for you. And always try to fit in a shakedown trip with the bike fully loaded once the set-up is done. It’s going to feel quite different in proper overland mode and you’ll get an idea of any changes or adjustments that might be needed.

Well-sorted suspension is essential for an overland adventure machine. Fully loaded with luggage and all your gear, your bike’s stock suspension probably won’t be up to the job of delivering comfort and stable, predictable handling over varying terrain, even if it has a decent range of in-built adjustment.

And don’t think you need to replace your bike’s fork and shock with premium aftermarket gear to get a decent ride. It is entirely possible – and cost-effective – to upgrade stock suspension with stiffer springs and modified valving for a similar result.

Seek out your nearest suspension guru and discuss where you plan to ride and what you plan to take. They’ll know what works and should be able to recommend a suitable set-up that won’t break the bank.

Tumbles will happen, and you don’t want a small crash to leave you stranded.

Top of your list should be a bash plate to protect the sump. Some bikes come stock with plastic bash plates, but these can be flimsy. If that looks like yours, swap it for a sturdy alloy item from a well-known aftermarket supplier. Fitting is usually an easy DIY job. Make sure you can access the sump plug with the bash plate fitted for easy oil changes.

Handguards protect your digits and levers from spills and the elements. Opt for a sturdy set of aftermarket handguards, such as Barkbusters, and you won’t go far wrong.

Crash bars are worth considering. They protect expensive bits such as your bike’s radiator, engine cases and bodywork, and often give extra mounting points for small bags and lighting. They aren’t available off-the-shelf for all bikes and can be pricey, but they do provide great peace of mind.

Setting up and then fine-tuning your bike’s controls will improve feel and make your ride less tiring. The right handlebars will help prevent shoulder and back pain over long stints in the saddle while giving more control in rough country.

A cheap and simple trick is to rotate the handlebars slightly forward or back to alter the reach. If the stock ’bars on your bike don’t feel quite right, explore the wide range of aftermarket handlebars. Changing the bend, height, or width of the ’bars even by a few millimetres can make a huge difference, as can fitting a set of aftermarket handlebar risers. Be aware, though, that raising your handlebars significantly may mean you’ll also need to fit longer cables and brake lines.

If you are planning on covering a lot of dirt, a set of wider footpegs is a good investment. The extra width gives your feet a more stable platform in rough terrain, and you can even get ’pegs that are slightly lower or higher (usually between 5mm to 10mm each way), which enhances comfort.

Speaking of comfort, adventure bike seats aren’t renowned for plushness, so be sure yours is up to the job. Rack up plenty of hours in the saddle as part of the shakedown process and make changes if needed – your body will thank you for it!

A sheepskin cover is an easy option, or there are specialists in most states who can customise a stock seat to your requirements. Alternatively, complete replacement seats are available for many current and recent bike models from several aftermarket manufacturers. These are generally plug-and-play, and you could always sell the stock seat to recoup some of the cost.

Heated grips are a godsend, so seriously consider fitting a set – it’s another fairly simple DIY task. As well as being bloody uncomfortable, cold fingers can drastically impair your feel at the controls.

A screen or windshield can also take the edge off frosty weather and those highway hauls. There are OEM and aftermarket screens around for most bikes. If you’re doing a lot of dirt riding, a screen may not be practical, so weigh it up against your travel plans.

The luggage you choose should depend on your bike’s size and type, where you plan to ride and how much stuff you want to carry. Either way, there’s an age-old argument over which style of luggage – hard or soft – is better.

Hard luggage, such as metal or plastic panniers and topboxes, are generally stronger, weatherproof, and lockable. Hard panniers also make a handy extra seat or table at the campsite. On the downside, hard luggage is heavier and requires racks for mounting, which adds even more weight.

Soft luggage is lighter, more flexible, and often expandable, but less secure from thieves and can be tricky to mount. Rackless soft luggage is great for smaller bikes as it doesn’t add much weight, but storage capacity can be limited.

Roll-top dry bags are a brilliant weatherproof option and work well on a rear rack or even as panniers. And tankbags are super handy for putting smaller items at your fingertips, although they can be difficult to fit on some dirt bike fuel tanks.

On my overlanding Yamaha WR250R a tankbag wouldn’t work, so I asked a canvas shop to stitch two ex-army daypacks into tank panniers. The daypacks aren’t waterproof, so the contents went into small dry bags first. They worked a treat, putting my things in easy reach while keeping the weight lower down on the bike.

Finding your way – be it with traditional paper maps, a GPS unit, or a mobile phone – is a personal choice, but whatever the method, you’ll need somewhere to mount or store your navigation aid and, with the latter two, some way to power them.

Many tankbags have a clear pocket in the lid which is ideal for paper maps – just make sure it is waterproof. Dedicated GPS units often come with native mounting kits and it’s wise to hard-wire them into the bike as they can be power-hungry. Mobile phones, on the other hand, should be just that, so you’ll need a power socket in the cockpit to keep the phone’s battery charged as well as those of any other electronic devices, such as GoPro cameras etc.

USB power sockets are inexpensive and pretty reliable, but vibration will eventually kill them. Luckily, they are fairly easy to install and replace. Look for a socket with two USB inputs, so you can charge more than one device at a time. A digital voltmeter is useful too, as it provides a health check on the state of your bike’s battery.

Generally, a fuel tank of 15 to 16 litres or more will be sufficient for overlanding in most parts of the world. Vehicles are used all over the planet and those vehicles need fuel. Even in seemingly remote corners, you’ll nearly always be able to find somebody selling petrol.

That last-chance petrol, however, might be sold in a plastic drink bottle and could be of dubious quality, which is why you should definitely fit an external fuel filter to help keep any crud out of your engine. Filters can be plumbed into a fuel line or sit inside the filler neck – either way, try to get one that can be cleaned and reused.

If you do need extra fuel capacity, there are a few options. Replacement tanks, such as those from Aussie brand Safari, can offer many more litres, but at a cost. Specialty containers such as Rotopax canisters and fuel bladders come in a variety of capacities and secure to racks and crash bars. The humble 5L plastic jerry can is a cheap but practical solution, and even an empty soft drink bottle can be used in a pinch (trust me, I know!).

For an adventure bike, a decent set of dual-purpose tyres is the way to go. Something designed for 50/50, 60/40, or even 70/30 road/dirt is a good comprise for most conditions, while the brand will come down to personal preference.

If your travel plans include venturing well off the beaten track, then a more dirt-focused tyre might be necessary, but bear in mind these will probably wear faster than dual-purpose hoops.

Whatever you choose, make sure you can find replacement tyres when you need them. Rear tyres will generally wear out quicker than fronts, especially on a fully loaded machine. While you could take a spare tyre with you, they are bulky, heavy, and awkward to stow securely.

It’s worth noting that tyres for larger adventure bikes can be hard to find in some regions, because those bikes often aren’t popular or even available in many markets. In some cases, you might be forced to import suitable tyres, which can lead to major hassles and expense.

This article was originally published in December 2023.