Advice: 9 routine maintenance checks you can do yourself

1. Chain lubrication and tension
Lubricating your chain regularly is a good way to prolong both its and your sprockets’ life, both which can add up to surprisingly pricey replacements depending on the make and model of your bike.

An incorrectly tensioned chain can wear out sprockets prematurely, and in the case of an over-tightened chain can even upset the suspension and handling of the bike. Check the manual for the manufacturer’s guidelines – some bikes will have a sticker on the swingarm – but a good rule of thumb is between 10mm and 25mm of vertical free-play.

When you’re checking the tension of your chain, it’s a good idea to have someone of a similar weight to you sit on the bike, because the chain tightens with the extra weight of the rider.

If your bike has a centrestand, spin the rear wheel and check for tight spots in the chain. This is also an efficient way to lubricate the chain; just make sure you don’t get any overspray on the tyre’s surface or the brake rotors. And many riders lubricate their chain following a ride, when the chain is still warm.

2. Battery maintenance
Nothing will turn a great day bad faster than discovering you have a flat battery. Many modern bikes have a voltage output reading on the dash; the standing charge should be somewhere around 12.6 volts, or slightly higher.

If the battery is flat or the voltage is a little low, clean the terminals and hook the battery up to a suitable charger – there’s myriad available these days, so find out which one best suits your needs.

If you can, opt for a low-charge rate for a suitable amount of time rather than going for a fast blast of charge. Older-style acid batteries will need to have their filler caps loosened during the charging process.

3. Check your oil level
If your bike is serviced regularly, you should only be checking the levels to ensure your bike isn’t using oil at an irregular rate. More often than not, there’ll be a sight glass on the side of the engine with two lines on it. When the bike is upright (i.e. not on its side stand), the oil should fall between the two lines if it’s at the correct level. Some older bikes will have a dipstick on the filler cap as a way of checking the level.

It’s a good idea to check the underside of the cap in both scenarios, as a milky residue could indicate there’s water in the oil.

It’s a relatively simple process to change the oil yourself. Follow your owner’s manual and stick to the procedural guidelines specific to your bike. Always change the filter when you change the oil, and it’s better to use a genuine filter where you can (and pick up a new sump-plug gasket while you’re at it).

Drain the oil when the engine’s warm; this makes draining the oil quicker and more efficient. And make sure you take your time refilling the oil. If you’ve over-filled it, you can use a specially designed syringe to get it back to the correct level. Excess oil can sometimes be just as detrimental to your engine as low oil. Give it a few minutes and double check the levels before starting the engine.

4. Checking coolant level
An engine running at an optimal temperature is the most efficient engine so it’s a good idea to check your coolant levels. Never remove a radiator cap when the engine is hot. In any case, coolant reservoir tanks should be translucent so you shouldn’t have to remove the cap to check the levels.

If you need to change your coolant, be sure to check the owner’s manual and follow any procedures specific to your bike. It’s a good idea to tap or gently squeeze the water hoses to dislodge any air bubbles from the system.

5. Brake fluid levels
Since you’ve checked your coolant and oil levels, let's check the level and condition of your brake fluid, too. Levels are easily checked via the transparent master cylinder reservoirs; the front brake’s reservoir is generally mounted on the handlebar while the rear reservoir is normally mounted somewhere near your foot-peg mount.

Ensure your bike is upright in order to get an accurate reading. Carefully remove the lid to check the state of the rubbers and the fluid, as both can deteriorate over time and reduce braking performance.

6. Brake pads
Speaking of brakes, check the thickness of your brake pads too. You’ll need a torch, but it’s relatively easy to see how much meat you have left on your pads within the caliper: anything less than a few millimetres means they're nearing replacement.

A high-pitched squeaking noise doesn’t necessarily mean they’ve worn down to metal on metal, but a metallic grinding or scraping noise during braking is reason for concern.

Brakes of course are crucial, so if you’re worried get them checked out by your mechanic.

7. Tyres and pressures
The only thing between you and the road are the two tiny contact patches of your tyres. It’s imperative your tyres are in the tip-top condition and always inflated to the correct recommended pressures.

Invest in a good-quality pressure gauge rather than relying on the often-dodgy items at service stations, and always stick to the manufacturer's guidelines.

Visually inspect your tyres regularly. This is easiest when the bike is on a centrestand as you can spin the wheel while feeling and looking at the surface for any obvious concerns or visible damage. Check the wear indicators within the tread pattern and always make sure you fit the best tyres you can afford.

8. Keep it clean
Apart from keeping it looking good, washing your bike regularly is a great way to spot anything that needs attention: cracked hoses; leaking fork seals; a loose chain or a damaged tyre.

Wash the bodywork and screen first when the rag or sponge is at its cleanest, to avoid accidental scratches. We recommend a gentle hand wash over a high-pressure cleaner, but if you do use the latter take care to avoid areas that won't appreciate water being forced into them: wheel hubs, switchblocks (any electrics, really), the muffler and so on.

9. Lighting and indicators
The last place you want to discover your tail or brake light doesn’t work is when you've just been rear-ended. Regularly check your headlight is in good working order (high and low beam), as well as all four indicators and your tail and brake lights. Ensure switches are easy to turn on and off and give the horn a toot to make sure that’s good, too.

This article was originally published on April 4, 2018.